Home Theater

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/curse4444 on 2024-01-13 18:06:28+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/p0kiri on 2024-01-13 17:59:04+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Lemesh3mille on 2024-01-13 17:55:37+00:00.

Hi everyone

I own a pair of fantastic Beovox Penta passive speakers. I've been wanting to buy a decent receiver to maximize their lifespan and sound quality. I've been reading a bit about the compatibility between speaker and receivers but I'm not technical at all so I'm having a hard time coming to a conclusion. So I'd thought to just ask it here, as my question will probably be rather easy for someone with knowledge on the subject.

So I have a pair of Beovox Penta passive speaker, these are the specs I found online:

Type:6611 (1986 - Dec 1992)

RMS power handling capacity 150 watts

Music power handling capacity 200 watts

Impedance 8 ohms

Frequency range 4+ -8 dB 40 - 20,000 Hz

Power at 96 dB SPL 2.5 watts

Sensitivity 1 W 92 dB

The receiver I've been looking at is the Denon AVR-X 1700H. Apparently a good choice in its price range. It has 80W power per channel. From what I've read the power output per channel should be around the power of the speakers. This seems not the case with these two.

So my question is: Will the Denon AVR-X 1700H do a good job paired with my speakers or do I need to go for a more expensive receiver? I don't have professional hearing so I don't have the biggest demands in sound quality, but I would like my speakers to live as long as possible.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Lopsided_greenery on 2024-01-13 17:43:04+00:00.

My space means it is tricky to get the surrounds at the right angles (I.e. 100-120) in a 5.1.4. Instead, they will have to go further back, behind the sofa, at about 135-140 degrees. This is essentially where rears would go in a 7.1.

Can this still work for a 5.1.4 system? Or should I just go for a 3.1?

I will probably use q150s as surrounds (front will be the q550 and q650c). Hoping the in ceiling atmos + room correction will help somewhat. I might occasionally be able to bring the speakers forward during movies but everyday use and gaming will be further back.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/DannyHodler on 2024-01-13 16:34:03+00:00.

Hello everyone, After careful consideration and lots of trying to convince my wife I’ve got the plan to create a 7.1.4 in ceiling Atmos setup in our livingroom. I’m using all my current speakers as a base to upgrade from in the future and bought four additional in ceiling Polk rc60i speakers for Atmos. Can anyone recommend a 2 channel amp that simply supplies the Denon X3800H with the power to utilize all of its 11 channels? I would prefer it also to have a trigger which the receiver supports. 100 watt per channel should be more than fine for the additional Atmos speakers. Thanks in advance!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/xXpdog54321Xx on 2024-01-13 16:32:12+00:00.

Recently upgraded my Stereo from a late 80’s NAD to a Marantz NR1402. Was excited to finally have a remote so I didn’t have to get up to adjust the volume. However, that excitement faded once I realized I couldn’t adjust the Eq settings.

The old NAD had 3 knobs, Volume, Treble adjust and Bass adjust. I like my bass to shake the room so I had that knob all the way up. When I hooked up the new Marantz, I was extremely disappointed with the bass.

There were no visible eq knobs or buttons on the stereo itself, and the manual as well as online forums were not helpful at all. I had given up hope and was considering returning to the 1980’s and using my old NAD. Decided to say screw it and clicked through every single menu on the Marantz and I was able to find the Eq settings! (Very nice great success!) Since I wasn’t able to find instructions on how to do it, I figured I’d be the one to post. Just wanted to make everyone read my personal essay first so if you made it this far I love you and thank you.

Hint: use the return button on the remote to go back one menu screen.

Instructions:

1. On the remote click “amp menu”
2. Scroll to “Audio adjust” hit enter
3. Scroll to AudysseySettings hit enter and select eq setting “manual” then
4. Go back to the amp menu main menu and scroll to “audio adjust” and click enter
5. Scroll to Manual EQ setting hit enter, then scroll Adjust CH to All.
6. Scroll down onde the screen says “all” and you should see adjuster settings for different Hz frequencies. Play with those. Low Hz = Low frequencies (bass)

I hope this helps someone!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/booksforyall on 2024-01-13 16:01:58+00:00.

Saw this and thought of my fellow audio lovers on this sub. Wanted to share and discuss.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Optikk12 on 2024-01-13 16:00:20+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Fatoons21 on 2024-01-13 15:53:29+00:00.

This will not be a home theater space, but I'd like to have a decent audio experience. I'm prewiring for home audio and have already placed a left and right speaker on the ceiling.

A few examples of the concept I am going for are below. I thought it would be nice if I could tie the TV into the same speakers while I'm at it and the walls are open.

Do you think a small bookshelf to the left and the right of the fireplace is worth it to upgrade this space from a 2.0 experience to a 4.0? Or, would a center channel (under the TV) work better and take this to a 3.0 setup instead?

Note: I could add another pair in the ceiling behind the seating arrangement, but I've learned that the Left and Right channel ideally should be ear level. (unless something like this would do the trick because they are angled down? - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_10770RT/Polk-Audio-70-RT.html)

Thanks

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/jnova14 on 2024-01-13 15:49:37+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/tranceandsoul on 2024-01-13 15:47:46+00:00.

Thought I should share my "journey" of dialing in my subwoofers in my HT. Hopefully this might be useful to others. (Btw, english is not my first language. Hope it's sufficient enough).

A bit of back story about my HT. Dedicated room in my basement, mainly concrete walls and celing. 7x4m approx. Running 5.2.2 with Yamaha RX-V6A, XTZ subwoofers, Klipsch RF-280F front speakers, Klipsch center (forgot model) and some lesser known brands to surround and Atmos speakers.

Anyhow, I've have had alot of problems getting the bass to sound good. The total amount of bass is enough, but I have always had problems with to "boomy" and "sloppy" bass. No matter what I did, I did not get it not even close to what I wanted. Bass was also extremely different dependent where I was standing in the room.

I did try this:

• Classic subwoofer crawl (with both 1 and 2 subwoofers)

• Turning one subwoofer off

• Moved the subwoofers around

• Adjusted parametric settings (add dB to certain Hz)

• Adjusted crossover

• Adjusted phase setting (both on subs and reciver)

• Adjusted EQs (both in sub and recivier)

• Acoustic treatment (pretty much actually, lol)

• Countless room EQ measurements

• Adding and removing bass plugs (ported subwoofers)

Even though i would get it somewhat decent, I was never really happy. Mostly because of the boomy bass and lack of precision. And I do not think I'm to picky either :)

So... what did improve this ordeal?

For some reason, I did not think about the parametric also can be adjusted to minus (negative) dB. Tried to set parametric setting around 80-90Hz, and did reduce it with ~5dB.... and man.... Now I could crank the gain up and get a significantly better and instantly get a more "alive" and well rounded sound. Both music and movies. After some fiddling around with some various settings... never been happier with the way it sounds.

Of course it's not perfect, and things can get tweaked even more. The parametric setting have been there all along, but for some reason I did not even think of it.

All rooms and setups are different, but if you have a similar issue that I had, you could definitly try this out (if your subwoofer have this setting). Hope this can help anyone out there to improve their HT even more.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/carterzx on 2024-01-13 15:43:48+00:00.

I have a Yamaha RX-V573 that sometimes turns itself back on at random around 10mins after I turn it off, The issue has only just started happening after I upgraded my TV to a newer model. I previously had a older Sony TV that was around 10 years old & everything worked fine & then i recently upgraded to a new Sony X90K & since then when i turn the TV off the Amp turns off like it should but sometimes after 10mins it randomly comes back on all by itself.

Everything else seems as normal, Amp turns itself on when the TV is turned on & ARC works fine. I only have one other device connected to the amp via HDMI but i recently got a bluerigger HDMI CEC less adaptor & still have the issue so i assume its a issue between the TV & Amp. I want to keep the TV & amp turning on/off automatically so i prefer not to disable CEC.

Could it be a compatibility issue between the two because the Amp would be around 10 years old? If I get a newer model Amp will it fix the issue? if so should i try a different brand like denon? or stick with yamaha?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/xlowpitch on 2024-01-13 15:30:52+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/xTheMonster4x on 2024-01-13 13:53:01+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/LorsL84 on 2024-01-13 11:05:41+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Trebulette on 2024-01-13 11:23:39+00:00.

Hey Reddit community,

I'm in a bit of a dilemma and could use the insights of the audio experts here. Currently, I have a Sonos home theater system featuring the Sonos ARC, Sub 3, and Era 300 rear speakers. While I've invested around €2,000 in this setup, something doesn't quite satisfy me, especially for movies and music in my living room.

Here's the deal: I'm still within the return period and contemplating a switch to an AVR and dedicated speakers. My plan is to start with a 3.0 LCR + AVR setup and later add rear speakers. Also, I want to emphasize that I have Sonos speakers in the rest of my house (sonos port in the future).

Do you think it's worth making this change? What options would you recommend within a similar budget? The dimensions of my TV area are approximately 4.8m x 3.6m (15.75ft x 11.81ft) in an apartment with neighbors only above and below.

I'm based in Europe. Additionally, note that the FL (Front Left) and FR (Front Right) speakers would be placed within a bookshelf.

I appreciate your valuable advice and experiences.

Thanks, everyone, for your help!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/KajakZz on 2024-01-13 10:41:42+00:00.

so i 2 years ago i bought a full dali spektor setup , 2 towers, 2 bookshelf, a center for around 1000. i got a svs sb2000 from a friend and know im wondering if i should trade the setup to get 2 decent bookshelves, the towers arent really worth it now with a sub. The speakers sound great, but wouldnt it be smarter to buy 2 decent bookshelves and upgrade later? Would love some opinions about it, thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/PreviousAvocado5599 on 2024-01-13 09:59:52+00:00.

When do you guys anticipate 2024 line up of TV’s to be released?

Would it significantly drive prices of the 2023 TVs down?

I’m looking at the 83” LG oled G series.

Thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/TyrosinLennyster on 2024-01-13 09:52:50+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/yellowroll on 2024-01-13 08:51:52+00:00.

I have LG C2 48" and the audio I get from the audio jack isn't great. I have an Astro Mixamp Pro and the audio sounds noticeably better when listening to podcasts and music. I wish to get a DAC that is simple to use and plug & play. The dac will only be used/plugged into my TV and not my PC via optical. Also, I don't wish the DAC to have any surround sound features like Dolby etc.

From my research, Creative Sound BlasterX G6, Audioengine D1, Fosi Audio K5 Pro, and Schiit Hel are well recommended but I am not sure if they would be suitable to be connected to the optical port at the back of my TV and to drive my EPOS H6Pro Open headset?

Which would you recommend if it is not on that list?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/mandresy00 on 2024-01-13 08:22:37+00:00.

Hello, I've just got an samsung cu7172 55 inch tv in my bedroom with the recommanded wiewing distance and it gave me seriouse headhache after a few days of watching, Is the headhache occures because of the screen sizes? Is there any settings that will help with the headhache on the tv?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Haunted99 on 2024-01-13 07:45:57+00:00.

I have this receiver and every time i switch it on, there is no sound that comes through. On ARC there will be pops and crackles and intermittent sound. Then after a while the sound will come through normally. Any ideas of what might causing the issues?

Thanks

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/jakebyrne123 on 2024-01-13 07:18:41+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/hamburglin on 2024-01-13 05:43:08+00:00.

And it's only accessible in the MultiEQ-X app. The one that costs $200 and that is on Windows. Not the MultiEQ mobile app.

The EQ setting is call "Dolby Elevation" and it pumps 5khz to 9khz by 2db. You CANNOT delete it like you can the other EQ options. It will recreate itself when you transfer the files to your AVR. However, you CAN disable it by unchecking "Reference" and "Flat". Here is a picture of it in MultiEQ-X:

This is a big deal if you're using your home audio for music instead of just movies. Particularly if you're using Auro 3d, since it uses the Dolby's. I set the high end rolloff to #2 but still was getting fatigued by highs. Once I disabled this middish-high end pump from my upfiring dolby's, it was noticeable and helped immensely.

Of course, I keep this setting on for my movie/atmos preset.

Otherwise, MultiEQ-X is great for setting a custom parametric EQ. You can perfectly tune your curve, and also see exactly what happens when your turn the Audyssey room correction off at a certain range. I pumped my Polk ES20's 60-80hz to keep it at 0 instead of letting it dip a few db (not sure why Audeyssey did this, there was plenty of overhead), while also keeping my natural sub response between 20 and 30hz:

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/bill53058 on 2024-01-13 05:24:02+00:00.