Home automation is the residential extension of building automation.
It is automation of the home, housework or household activity.
Home automation may include centralized control of lighting, HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning), appliances, security locks of gates and doors and other systems, to provide improved convenience, comfort, energy efficiency and security.
Warning: Working with electricity can result in injury, property damage, or even death if it is not done properly. Please keep this in mind while assisting others. If you are not sure about what you are doing, hire a licensed professional.
If doing Unified (or other similar style), think about doing network drops on the ceiling (PoE).
Run a thunderbolt or fiber cable from the utility/server room to your office if you want to rack mount a computer and just run it from the office.
Make sure there are outlets on the side of the house for outdoor lighting if desired (or Christmas lights).
Cat5 for wireless AP's, RG-6's to the attic for local antena / satelite / fm , conduit to out building for data / ap's.
Also, we always ran 16/2 for the speakers. 18 is a little thin.
Not electrical but plumbing - put in an access for a robotic vacuum filling and rinse station either in the kitchen or in a bathroom. Only one vacuum has this so far but my bet is that this will be standard very soon.
A waterbottle filling station - either separate from or at the sink. Make it easy to fill all those water bottles your kids will use at school.
If your kitchen and garage are next to each other, a couple of chutes for recycling - I've always wondered why more homes didn't have something like this. Also under counter recycling bins and garbage bin that slide in and out. Oh and nice spice racks in the cupboards. These two are my fave additions from when we renovated.
A cold storage area - invaluable!
Wire for where you are putting tv on walls. Take into consideration HDMI connections. Where (if) you iron. Might want a raised plug. Lights in closets. Multiple plugs by bed for night tables and all the stuff we plug in. Love the Lutron app. My Motorized blinds are not direct wired just have to be recharged once in a while.
If I had it all over to do again, I'd put multiple outlets for cat6 (shielded) in each room and each outlet would have a minimum of 2-4 jacks.
Cat6, especially shielded, can be used for more than ethernet.
Pull CAT6 to all TV locations, multiple lines for possible future devices. Wire is cheap, it gets more expensive to pull after the drywall is up.
Cat6 to each tv location. Not only for internets but also if you wanted long runs for hdmis
Cat7 and LC fiber. If all the runs are under 30m you can use cat8. I wouldn't bother with 5e on a new build.
don't forget about the outside:
inside run cat6 to anywhere you might put a tv.
consider prewiring for projector / in wall speakers/ subwoofer etc if you have a home theater type area. or even just for living room tv, wire everthing to a nearby closet if you want a simple wire free tv setup
i also ran cat6 to a wall or two in almost every room for potential future use
Make sure you do cat 6 to any place you might run a camera outside too
And pipes under your driveway for future wiring
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If money was no object, maybe conduit going from every room to a central place so you can easily run whatever you want in the future.
Why cat5e? I was under the impression that the cost difference between cat5e and cat6 was negligible nowadays, but maybe someone will comment on that
Photograph and map everything too!
I would put in piping through which the wires go through. This way it is easy to replace and upgraded wires as needed.
Most comments are legit. I would do at least 16/2 for the speakers, just in case you wanna push some higher power.
Honestly, for a house, you will be fine with cat5e, gigabit+ all day even passing through interference. I can push 10gb through cat5e at 15 feet. Ethernet cable is, generally, incredible!
Cat5e is a bit cheaper but also easier to pull and handle than LEGIT cat6, don’t even bother with cat6A. Cat8 is mainly data center stuff so it would be plain retarded to run that in a house, same with fiber (unless any of your runs are going to be above 300+ ft). Cat7 doesn’t exist.
I would also pull a network cable for a Wi-Fi in every other bedroom, or even every bedroom, and definitely one or two for the TV. I would say at least two if you’re going to centralize video transmission. That way all you have on the wall is a TV and HDMI gets passed through an ethernet cable (cable length, type, and the technology used here is important) but then the TV can also get network for local smart apps.
If your house is ever going to be used as a workplace or a recording or production studio, then I would definitely look at cat6 or even cat6a. Cat6 can push 10gb about 200 feet or less, cat6a is rated for 10gb all the way through. Still I would do Cat6 for data and cat5e for cameras, intercom, and other low bandwidth controls.
18/2 for the shades is great, 22ga for alarm contacts is also great, 18ga for electronic door locks is great. Consider running control wires to wherever you’re planning on having automation, or at least ethernet wires, those can be fantastic control wires. Wherever you have an ethernet cable, you can pop in a switch and add some sort of ethernet relay for future use. Don’t forget ethernet for the pool!
If the Wi-Fi is properly designed, most of your smart stuff will have no problem functioning anywhere it is.
Just think ahead.
A couple cat 6 to each tv location, in case you ever want to do video distribution can’t hurt.
If you are considering a pool, most automation controller have Ethernet port; so I would plan a run where equipment pad would go. Good time to plan outlets for your landscape transformers on smart switches too.
Doorbell nowadays can be hardwired with POE; so plan for Ethernet wire instead of traditional 2 wire.
Not wire specific but now is also a good time for a central vacuum with tubing that feed back into the wall (chameleon or hide-a-hose).
You talked about cameras - how will they be powered? Do you need an electrical outlet for each camera? An Ethernet jack? Look into 'Power over Ethernet', where DC power is provided by the Ethernet cable. It requires PoE cameras and extra equipment at the switch, but eliminates AC power runs for the cameras.
When running conduit between floors or attic to under house, consider using as large a conduit as practical to make it easy to add/replace cables. Mice like wires . . .
Not automation related:
Do you want to plan for a burglar alarm? You can run an unconnected cable from the attic into the wall at a convenient location(s), even if you don't want it now.
Assuming you live in the U.S., city building codes and National Electric Code will specify minimum electrical wire size, outlet spacing/requirements, and requirements for wet locations like bathrooms.
Consider using 'arc fault' circuit breakers if they are not already required by code. Intermittent connections are a serious source of fires.
If you want to install ceiling fans (now or in the future), use 'Fan Rated' junction boxes. Not needed for all fan sizes, but nice to know the fan weight won't limit your choices.
Garage - do you want to put one (or two) EV charging stations in it?
Our place is only 2200sq ft on one level. The only thing I’m struggling with is speakers for the lounge / kitchen as it’s vaulted. But here’s my list which is the same as everyone else’s:
Ethernet at not so visible spots to place wifi access points.
Smurf tube from basement/telco closet to attic, run more cable/fiber down the road. 2-4 cat6 per room.
Don’t go too crazy with speakers. I’m running 2 speakers in the ceiling in the living room, hooking it to a Sonos amp which will act as surrounds for an Arc soundbar, the future is soundbars sadly.
can you run cat5/low power to exterior for security cameras?
flood/motion lights outside?
EV charging - run 6/3 to a box in your garage - omit the outlet if you like, or put a NEMA 14-50 in there. Then, regardless of what EV you pick it would work. (Although there's a 99% chance NACS will win).
Run wiring for generator / Power wall before drywall goes in.
Is your kitchen propane or induction? need 240v here.
Run 240v/120v to basement for second washer/dryer set. (We put our old ones in basement, and wash dirty/muddy/clothes/dog beds/etc.). Then the other set is on 2nd floor.
you can NEVER have enough outlets in kitchen/office areas. Bedrooms too. Wife ran a space heater and iron, and pop goes the breaker. Run multiple home runs.
120v in wall heaters in bathrooms are P I M P.
In floor heating wiring?
If I was building new. I'd have a minisplit cassette style in every bedroom - set any temp you want! or close off rooms not in use.
home theater rooms - speaker wire runs.
Fancy lighting power runs.
man all this adds up fast $$ good luck!
400 amp service for sure! twin 200 amp panels.
Get Cat7! Also, lots of smaller speakers (ceiling/wall) are much better than a couple big ones. Also, run conduit pipes so you can easily add wires/ things in the future!
Plan out a place for a robot mop with water line and drain line hook ups. Switchbot just released a robot mop earlier this year that will go to a water station to get clean water and drain waste water. The water station is placed near a sink. It would be good to design a place for both robot mop and robot vacuum. See link below. I’m modifying my remodeling project as I just found out about this idea. Not exactly pre wire but pre plumb.
https://www.youtube.com/live/TCtceJ7rfiI?si=B74yb0JFp8wnMAZg
I just did speaker and cat 6 all over. Cat 6 to ever corner of house, every room has four outlet, and every corner of the house has two runs.
If I had it to do over, I would put 2 Ethernet drops on every wall of living space but the bathrooms. And pull strings in every drop. (Conduit to hard ones) You will want a "computer room" for the network stuff, but also NAS, DVR, smart home hub, and more as the needs grow. Dedicated circuit an a place to mound a business class rack mount UPS. (2200 or better) And speaking of power, you should add more than you need. And leave room for monitoring it in the box. If your panel is in the garage, a shelf for another switch may be handy. I have a switch in my house, my detached garage, and my shed...
I would not do cat 5. Do something faster. The tech will catch up.
A lot of good info and suggestions here. I’m saving this thread for future lookup.
I would also consider these:
This is one of the more succinct summary from 2021. Just update some tech (e.g. Cat 6A vs Cat 6). https://youtu.be/wnac20HPlR0?si=I5Jyq0Xl3jM81RlL
Power in window sills for electric candles is one o my ideas I have not seen posted.
220 / 50 amp dedicated circuit to garage for electric vehicle. Solar if you get enough sun, or plan for back up generator. Solar panels may improve efficiency in future. And a big battery.
16/4 for speakers at a minimum. 14/4 if you have runs more than like 75’. Loop at one speaker then jump to the next. Do not cut the loop.
Cat6 everywhere. Don’t even mess with cat5e, just run cat6 to TVs, “touch panels”, closets ceilings for wifi, mechanical room, garage, etc.
Power outlets in your exterior eaves/porch (if you have one). I’m having to consider how to add for holiday lights.
I networked my house back in 2005. If I did it again, I'd double, if not triple the amount of CAT5 in each room, and I thought I did a lot!
If I had my time again, all CATx cable would be armoured and shielded. I'd also route fibre to main rooms and break out with a managed switch in each area. I'd fibre to my main TV/AV area, my office, to my WiFi mesh system, the kitchen and the log cabin. I've jury rigged it for my office and WiFi.
I put power in a lot of places, including high up for equipment, but I didn't install enough. You'll never do enough. Also don't allow the electricians to pull/patch the networking, they don't really get it. I'd especially put power up by the windows so I could put in powered blinds/curtains easily. Power outside too.
I would make sure all light switches had a neutral and all wall sockets and light switches had deep (60mm) boxes. I might go for a star design rather than ring main so I could put automation in the fuse box.
I put coax in throughout, but haven't really used it except for DAB radio, probably wouldn't bother with it putting more CAT5 in instead.
My security cameras and devices are all wireless and battery operated, so they don't count.
All power sockets, everywhere, should also have USB sockets and have in-built home automation, eg z-wave or zigbee. Put the smarts in the sockets/light switch, not in th bulb.
Make sure you main network switch is easily available and make sure you can house other devices like a NAS close to the main switch. I have a 48port main switch with 4 fibre connections and half a dozen managed switches throughout the rest of the house. I have two broadband connections (Virgin and Plusnet) coming into a Draytek router with failover.
Hubitat is my home automation of choice.
Don't overlook running conduit, you can always pull wire as your needs or technology changes. Your area and or building code may restrict the product you can use. PVC is easy to work with. Another product which is cheap and easy is smurf tube, I believe the official name is Electrical non-metalic tubing?? Either may not be good in a area with cold temperatures. I actually never liked it for power wiring. Any pre-wiring can make all the difference in future-proofing you house, it's certain your internet will be fiber, maybe the same for audio and entertainment, and security systems systems. Even pipes run under a driveway AND recorded on your blueprint can make lighting and irrigation less of a project.
Put a switch in your garage for the front soffits if you might want holiday or decorative lights.
Put power in the attic for OTA TV antenna and maybe even AM/FM radio antenna. Run cabling for them to each of the rooms you might want those services.
Run Smurf tubing. Basically PVC pipe so you can pull the any new wires in when they get dates
Cat 6 and fiber uplinks
Outlet boxes as close to every window as code allows for Christmas lights, put a smart outlet in each.
GFCI outlets outside under the soffits, and a smart switch (consider breaking into zones if you do incandescent bulbs or otherwise go full-Griswold to keep under the watts the switch is rated for) and hide the switch inside a coat closet.
Just a shit ton of cat6 everywhere. It’s the only cable that matters anymore.
Low voltage LED floor washers in all baseboard wired to photocell to switch on when lights are off, on a UPS.
SurgeEX whole house non-destructable surge protection.
Install 6 to 8, 8-foot, copper-clad grounding rods to reduce grounding circuit impedance to a minimum. It makes electrocution far less possible and it makes audio gear really quiet and happy.
Run two, twenty-amp circuits for each audio and theater rooms for 40 amps, total.
Double the number of outlets above kitchen counters.
Double the number of outlets for bathroom counters.
Run CAT7 2.5-10GB ethernet cable for ALL WIRED CONNECTIONS BY ROOM TVs and media/theater/audio locations. 2.5GB ethernet WILL BE THE STANDARD SPEED. 2.5GB switch prices and 2.5GB ethernet now standard on almost all computers for sale in 2024, MAC and PC.
Run conduit through the walls - now you're prepped for whatever you plan in the future
16/2 for speakers. 2 CAT6 and a coax for each TV location, also a 1 1/4" mini duct. Any outdoor cameras, TV locations, speaker locations. 2 doorbell runs, 1 to transformer for a traditional , 9ne directly to your headend for POE. Waps, data, doors/windows, shades, glass breaks, daisy chained smoke hard lined to the security system.
Ethernet for POE video doorbell, ceiling AP, desk/TV’s in rooms.
For CAT5e make sure it’s copper (not CCA). And that it’s rated 2.5gbps for up to ~128ft(?). Trucable is a solid vendor on specs. But if you have the money do CAT6A or even fiber to really future proof.
Always a pair of Ethernet, never one. Every other wall in most rooms and all walls in some rooms. Can be used for IR and speakers.
Hdmi cables to a central server. Network cables to each TV and and additionalone for the room. Speaker wire for living room and out side speakers. Security cam runs.
Are people still running speaker wire from each room to a central location? I figure that would have been replaced by streaming by now. Apple Airplay, Chromecast, Sonos, Roon, etc. all allow synchronized multiroom audio over IP. I've been using Bang and Olufsen's Multiroom since 2015 and can't imagine running speaker wires. (But I would run CAT5e or CAT6 Ethernet everywhere for sure!)
