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The original was posted on /r/Ultralight by /u/SpottyBean on 2024-11-07 05:41:15+00:00.
Originally posted in r/UltralightAus
Where: Bibbulmun Track, southwest Australia.
When: 10/14/2024 - 10/30/2024 (16 days 13 hrs 35 mins)
Distance: Officially reported as ~620 miles (1,000 km). My watch measured 610 miles (982 km) and 74,250 ft of gain (22,630 m).
Conditions: Spring. Generally between 50–73°F (10–23°C). Lowest temp around 36°F (2°C) and hottest around 90°F (32°C). Mostly dry and fairly cloudy, with significant rain once.
Previous trip reports:
Tom's website (The Adventure Gene) is the repository of so much Bibbulmun info it's crazy. Thanks so much.
There's also the report by fellow PCT '24er Bumps from a while ago in a different season (autumn).
Introduction/Summary:
It feels a bit odd writing a report for this subreddit when my starting pack weight was about 42 lbs (19 kg). I felt far from ultralight but ended up eating my way down to my base weight of 8.3 lbs (3.7 kg) and used everything except some repair/emergency items. So it was a hike in the philosophical ultralight vein. Although my legs perhaps didn't appreciate this distinction.
The Bibbulmun Track is a long trail located in southwestern Australia. I had completed the hike in a more leisurely manner the previous year and would have called it well-graded then, but my opinion on this has now shifted. It is though well marked and well maintained. The trail goes through open Marri/Jarrah woodland, scrubby plains, majestic Karri forests and finally the southern coast.
In a fit of delusion I decided to attempt to walk the trail fully “unsupported”. From the FKT guidelines: “Unsupported means you truly have no external support of any kind. You must carry everything you need from start to finish except water from natural sources. Public taps along the trail are fine, but no water from any commercial source even if free.” The main challenge obviously being the 620 odd miles of food I’d have to carry. Resupplying in any way being against the rules. This sadly included any town food or coffee. 620 miles of food can be as many days as you decide, but it is a trade off between going longer and lighter or shorter and heavier. I decided I didn't want to carry more than 17 days of food and the entailed pace was not too impossible, and so that became my goal.
So far as I know this is the first completion of this trail in an unsupported style. I found it very challenging to say the least and I barely enjoyed any of it. The hardest hike I’ve done by a long shot. My cushy ultralight life hadn’t prepared me for the weight and crushing impact of the heavy pack. It took its toll on my body from the get go and I was just trying to hold on till the end. My mantra was: "tomorrow is a lighter day".
I met a lot of people who hike regularly with this pack weight which I find insane and definitely vindicated the ultralight style of hiking for me. I would not enjoy hiking anywhere near as much if that was my regular weight.
I was realistically pessimistic about my chances of completing the trail. I thought the most likely outcome would be pulling out due to injury on day 4 or 5. I did have a reasonable base of hiking fitness, having done the TA, Bibbulmun and PCT within the last two years. But I still struggled physically. I did get several injuries, the most serious on day 3, but they were all minor enough and manageable enough to allow me to continue onwards, albeit carefully.
Hiking the Bibbulmun unsupported required a lot of planning and preparation. Wild/free camping along the trail is not permitted sporadically for roughly half its length. The only permissible areas for wild camping are basically State Parks that are also outside of drinking water catchment areas. Towns are also out for the unsupported hiker as paying for anything, including accommodation or camping is not allowed. I had made a schedule that threaded the needle so to speak and pretty much stuck to it. Preparing all the food was a massive task. Being local, I cooked and dehydrated all my dinners which I cold soaked on the trail. It was well worth the effort. I nailed the food so I was never hungry and finished my last snack 4 miles from the finish.
The Report:
I’ve written a longer narrative style trip report with photos here: Long report.
When I wrote it I was fresh off the trail (although fresh is not the word I'd have used at the time) and I go into the day by day, how I was feeling, how bad my sleep was, the ant invasion of Day 4, why Day 7 was my worst day on trail etc.
There is also a short summary I included in the FKT submission you can read here: Fastest Known Time.
As part of the FKT submission I included tracking from my watch which updated my location every second, although they didn't include the files in their reporting. So there was no short cutting or quietly making my way to a café. Although there is always a level of trust and honesty involved in these things.
The stats for each day I’ll list below, taken from my gps watch. The pack weights are estimates based on the food I allotted to each day - I didn't have a set of scales on me.
Day - Distance, total elapsed time (hr:mm), elevation gain, starting total pack weight for the day
Day 1: 30.4 miles (49.0 km), 13:00, 5,315 ft (1,620 m), 42 lbs (19 kg)
Day 2: 31.1 miles (50.0 km), 13:13, 3,980 ft (1,213 m), 40.1 lbs (18.2 kg)
Day 3: 28.8 miles (46.4 km), 12:57, 3,166 ft (965 m), 38.3 lbs (17.4 kg)
Day 4: 33.6 miles (54.0 km), 15:13, 3,619 ft (1,103 m), 36.6 lbs (16.6 kg)
Day 5: 32.2 miles (51.9 km), 14:51, 3,993 ft (1,217 m), 34.6 lbs (15.7 kg)
Day 6: 37.2 miles (59.8 km), 14:51, 4,009 ft (1,221 m), 32.6 lbs (14.8 kg)
Day 7: 36.1 miles (58.1 km), 15:00, 3,346 ft (1,020 m), 30.6 lbs (13.9 kg)
Day 8: 36.5 miles (58.7 km), 15:29, 4,140 ft (1,262 m), 28.6 lbs (13.0 kg)
Day 9: 33.8 miles (54.4 km), 13:46, 4,425 ft (1,349 m), 26.6 lbs (12.1 kg)
Day 10: 36.6 miles (58.9 km), 14:53, 4,970 ft (1,514 m), 24.7 lbs (11.2 kg)
Day 11: 34.5 miles (55.6 km), 14:08, 4,698 ft (1,432 m), 22.7 lbs (10.3 kg)
Day 12: 39.6 miles (63.7 km), 15:37, 4,324 ft (1,317 m), 20.7 lbs (9.4 kg)
Day 13: 39.3 miles (63.2 km), 15:26, 2,493 ft (760 m), 18.7 lbs (8.5 kg)
Day 14: 36.7 miles (59.1 km), 14:49, 5,180 ft (1,579 m), 16.8 lbs (7.6 kg)
Day 15: 41.8 miles (67.2 km), 16:31, 6,886 ft (2,099 m), 14.8 lbs (6.7 kg)
Day 16: 42.9 miles (69.0 km), 17:11, 5,479 ft (1,670 m), 12.6 lbs (5.7 kg)
Day 17: 39.1 miles (63.0 km), 14:46, 4,232 ft (1,290 m), 10.4 lbs (4.7 kg)
Final thoughts
I don't really know how to conclude. It was tough. There were nice moments but it kinda just sucked. I reached new lows but asymmetrically didn't get close to new highs. Except maybe finishing. It was cool breaking new ground for the trail, doing something ambitious and challenging, something no one had done before and I am proud of the achievement for sure. But I'm looking forward to enjoying the next hike.
Gear Notes:
See Lighterpack for weights and the full list.
I went ultralight on everything except my sleeping system, intending to rely heavily on getting good sleep and recovery overnight. I ended up sleeping like trash for the first 10 nights due to having too much muscle pain to capitalise on my sleeping windows, but the strategy I think was sound. The pack also was about twice as heavy as I'd usually carry but this was a necessity as far as I am concerned given my starting weight.
Pack
The SWD Long Haul carries like a beast. I taped my hip area before the hike because I knew it would rub with the heavy weight. But other than that it worked perfectly. The ultra x has massively delaminated internally even before this hike, from the PCT, but that’s just what happens after about 2,000 miles with ultra I find (including the new x variant). The pack now has 3000+ miles on it and is going strong otherwise. I borrowed this pack from a mate I hiked with on the PCT, I would find it overkill for most other trips. For this though, it was the perfect weapon.
Shelter
There are 3-walled AT style shelters every 12 miles or so on the trail and some UL hikers opt to forego any shelter. I decided to take a shelter mainly to allow me to wild camp in those areas where it is allowed so I could more closely hike the distances I wanted to. There were also a couple of locations where shelters weren’t available and pushing on 12 miles due to weather would have been heinous on this hike.
The tarp was great, pitched well, and kept me dry the few times it rained overnight. It measures approximately 9.7 feet (2.95 m) long and 7.2 to 5.2 feet (2.2 to 1.6 m) wide, with a cat-cut, tapered A-frame design that is slightly hexagonal. I had made a couple of these by now and barely refined the design. I went with 0.51 DCF for the weight savings. The Lineloc V from Zpacks held the 1.2 mm cord well but they weren’t tested by any high winds. There are several photos on the longer report I've linked above.
My half bug net b...
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