Home Theater

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For audio visual enthusiasts who want to bring an immersive experience into their homes.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/RandyMcGoo on 2024-01-10 20:13:20+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/AWarTimeConsigliere on 2024-01-10 19:52:29+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/jakeearmstrong on 2024-01-10 19:13:05+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/jdatopo814 on 2024-01-10 19:03:46+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Aggressive_Claim_437 on 2024-01-10 18:41:48+00:00.


I plan on finishing my basement around May or June. Walls are open so no better time to hide speaker wires in the wall for a clean look. I’m looking to go with in wall speakers for L,C & R. For surrounds I’ll get bookshelves to mount so I can direct them towards my ears. In walls for surrounds won’t work for my layout.

Question is.. I’m looking at the Revels W253L’s for L,C & R to go on both sides and below my TV. What are your thoughts on these? Are in walls as good as on wall speakers, or am I sacrificing sound for aesthetics? Wife doesn’t want big speakers hanging on wall beside tv.

Also, what are some good bookshelves for surrounds that aren’t too bulky. This is my first time doing a HT setup as I’ve had soundbars my whole life. Thx!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/TheEconomyReindeer on 2024-01-10 18:31:21+00:00.


I need a center channel to fit in a space in a media cabinet that is 5.5" tall and 6.25 inches deep. Budget is under $1000. The other speakers are Polk Audio RTi8s up front, RTi6s in back, and Hsu STF-2 for LFE.

The Polk RS35 gets shit on for bad performance over 100hz and the Klipsch R34c is ugly with all those Klipsch-colored exposed screws. The KEF HTC8001 is an old design and I can't find any reputable reviews online. Thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/MileHighRC on 2024-01-10 18:27:36+00:00.


I just wanted to put my experience out there in case it can help others..

I recently upgraded from a Denon s750h to denon x3800h. I'm running all Polk signature elite speakers on a 5.1.4 setup, and recently just purchased the 4 atmos channels with the new AVR so I've had my bed layer polks for a while.

And for the longest time I just assumed that I would have to spend a LOT more money on speakers to get the type of sound that we all seek on some level. Really was just not that impressed with the Polks.. And I was coming from a pre-installed Bose 7.1 system if that says anything.

Long story short I did a bit of reading and stumbled across a setting that can only be changed through purchasing the Audyssey app, which is midrange compensation.

Decided to buy the app and give it a shot since I had finally completed my atmos setup and was still just not happy at all with it.

OMG!!! This setting alone turned off transformed my $3000 of equipment (retail price but I paid far less) from absolutely meh to truly making it sound like I bought all new speakers.. or as if I quite literally took the ear plugs out of my ears. It is really that significant of a difference. Hearing details everywhere that I've never heard before and it sounds fantastic to me now.

I'm sad that my bed layer sounded like shit for the last year because of a default Denon setting and no ability to change it unless you have the app or do individual speaker EQ.. which many don't have access to.

My question is, WHY ON EARTH DOES DENON DO THIS??! And why do I not see this topic pop up more often? I know there has to be a huge number of people who have this same issue and don't have a clue thinking they just need to buy better speakers..

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/JeffDog1978 on 2024-01-10 18:30:20+00:00.


I'm at peace with this since I discovered while in the middle of speaker set up that I needed to acquire an additional amp to make 7.1.4 happen, but now I'm just curious why this would be. It feels like an odd design decision. At first, I though there weren't enough amplifiers in the receiver to run all 11 binder posts, but there are speaker configurations that fold in Zone 2 that certainly do utilize all 11 binders posts, so I'm curious why Zone 2 can't be Height 2.

Anyone have any educated opinions?

Here are  the diagrams of different speaker configurations. The configurations in there that use all 11 channels are:

  • 5.1.2 Channel System + ZONE 2 / ZONE 3 Speaker
  • 7.1.2 Channel System + ZONE Speaker
  • 5.1.4 Channel System + ZONE Speaker
  • 7.1.4 Channel System + ZONE Speaker

Seems like that Zone 2 is always only Zone 2, and doesn’t have the ability to change to different audio channels. That seems odd since Surround Back can also be either Zone 3 or Height 2.

Madness.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/yoyobani on 2024-01-10 17:15:58+00:00.


I have plans to buy a Hisense 43A6KV 4k 43" TV display.

I have no 4k Bluray Discs and I pay for no streaming service and I don't have enough storage to download 4k HDR content on my PC. On top of that, most of the movies and tv series I plan to get on the future are not even available on 4k

Still, I think I'd like to have a future proof for if I were to get a 4k BD player and 4k discs, but taking in mind that 99% of the content I watch is not only in 1080p but also is from the last century... Would it look bad on a 4k TV or should I just stick to a native 1080p display of around the same size?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/BigPaulieEh on 2024-01-10 18:04:16+00:00.


Hi everyone. I'm interested in finally upgrading my TV to an OLED from an ancient 1080p tv. My source is an Apple TV 4k that runs to an HDMI audio extractor that successfully pulls a 5.1 dolby digital signal via optical to my old (but very nice) denon receiver. I'm extremely happy with the sound quality when streaming content with surround sound. Apple TV was one of the few devices that will transcode or downscale DD+ down to the old 5.1 dolby signal which is great for people like me doing everything they can to avoid upgrading receivers. My TV is an old 1080p TV that refuses to die. I'm ready to upgrade to an OLED. I don't really do any gaming anymore so I'm just trying to get the best picture possible on the new TV while maintaining my old surround sound setup. Seems some TVs have optical out that may work but I read many complaints of audio delay on LGs in particular. My current HDMI audio extractor only supports 4k @60hz and from what I can tell that will be extremely limiting the new TV's potential if I try to use it with the Apple TV. Looks like 4k @120 hz extractors are a bit hit or miss with performance and very expensive. Could I directly connect my Apple TV to the TV and then use eArc back to the old switch to pull audio or is that not how eArc works?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/TroyFerris13 on 2024-01-10 16:29:14+00:00.


Just buy a speed woofer! they are only 799.99 + ($400 for duties and shipping)

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/nadjabiznes on 2024-01-10 17:37:38+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Gig_Me on 2024-01-10 16:18:33+00:00.


Howdy everyone,

Finally about to upgrade my TV (40” Panasonic Plasma) and let me say that I’ve been doing research for years. Obviously, I’m set between the 3 big brands LG, Sony, and Samsung. Samsung is at the bottom of my list but it’s hard to ignore the value they provide.

All in all, all of the TVs now are so close to each other between picture quality that I’m more concerned with usability and operating system. I use AirPlay to cast to my AppleTV for ~75% of my content. SmartTVs now usually have AirPlay built in (I hope?) but there’s not a lot of documentation out there regarding it.

So my question is, which brand has the best operating system from a daily use, little lag, and minimal headaches perspective? And do all the TVs now natively support AirPlay or is that restricted on some? (For example Google’s OS on the Sony?) Am I better off just ignoring their built in UI and using my AppleTV instead, which means just get the TV I like to look at the most? Thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/ebenny12 on 2024-01-10 16:57:52+00:00.

Original Title: 85” tv, installing built ins at either 29” (marked right) or 34” (marked left). I like 34” because it’s countertop height and feels a bit more natural to me. Will my TV then be too high? 108” high ceilings. Need expertise, please! 🙏

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/penelopesanchez on 2024-01-10 16:10:08+00:00.


Hello!

Looking for a speaker system that fits our needs, which is primarily for music around the house. We would like speakers for our medium sized (~25' x 20') TV living room (to use with the TV as well), one in the adjacent kitchen (partially open-concept, has half of a wall between the two rooms), and one or two for small backyard outside (protected under roof awning). We want to be able to select which ones are playing. For a couple of years all we have been using is the speakers built into the Samsung Frame TV.... OK for the TV, pretty rough for music.

Just bought a Sonos Beam 2, hoping it would be enough for the TV room, but on its own it isn't great. Realizing that to use the Sonos system we will probably need another 2 rear speakers (Eras 100 or Symphonik) and mini-Sub for the living room, another Eras 100 for kitchen, and maybe another Sonos Move or Eras 100 for outside....so that is about $2250 all-in.

Since we are the kind of people that have tolerated the Frame TV as our only speakers for 2 years, we probably don't need to spend over $2K on speakers. Is there a reasonable quality and cheaper alternative anybody would recommend that fits our needs?

Location is California; Budget- would prefer to keep it in the 1K range, but would pay more if its the only option that meets our needs. Prefer to buy new.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/TroyFerris13 on 2024-01-10 16:29:14+00:00.


Just buy a speed woofer! they are only 799.99 + ($400 for duties and shipping)

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Phil--McCracken on 2024-01-10 15:20:34+00:00.


I have a 77" LG C2 and I want to have 4 speakers for front and back. I also want some fader control. My idea is to use 2 mini amps ( AIYIMA A07 Pro TPA3255 Power Amplifier ) to power the 4 speakers.

My first idea was to a ( Monoprice SSVC-4.1 Single Input 4-Channel Speaker Selector ) with 1 mini amp, but I do not think the amp will be powerful enough.

I have tried several soundbars with subs and was not impressed. I also have an old Yamaha amp A-1020 but it is way too big.

Thanks.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Arouthor on 2024-01-10 15:06:23+00:00.


I have a Samsung QN90A and have recently begun diving into 4K media at full bitrate. While streaming 4K content any time there would be a frame tear, bad motion blur, or quality degradation I would always sum it up to the streaming service limiting the bitrate and causing problems. However, now I have a library of physical media so I have less tolerance for these issues because they shouldn't happen when playing at full bitrate. I've started noticing stuttering while watching this content. As I understand it, this happens because the 24fps content lingers on the 120hz display; but I might be wrong here. It presents to me as frame tearing or like a ghost of an image dragging behind an object in motion; almost like motion blur.

I understand this is a reality of the display but I also know there are a ton of settings on the TV and I was hoping someone has found a way to balance the settings to reduce the stutter. Even if it isn't for this specific display anything you found helpful could translate. Any help is appreciated!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Kuli24 on 2024-01-10 15:04:13+00:00.

Original Title: Just got S660H. Should I go xbox one -> receiver -> TV or xbox one -> TV -> receiver via earc? I think the latter may let me use my tv remote to control the volume of the receiver so I only need one remote. Thanks.


Just trying to get this ironed out. Some people say earc has a bit of audio lag, which would turn me away from that, but I don't know if it's true. TV is x900h sony. Thanks

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/East_Confection9286 on 2024-01-10 15:00:58+00:00.


Hi, apologies as I am extremely new to home theatres so any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I bought some R820F floorstanding speakers as I was getting an amazing deal for a used set. I heard they produce solid bass on their own but I still bought a r100sw to pair it up for the extra oomph. Now I am looking at a center channel and I heard for movies, it is probably the most important piece as most of the dialogue comes through there. I was initially looking at getting a R52C but after reading some reviews, it seems that it makes more sense to go for an upgraded center channel due to it's importance in a home theatre set up.

Now looking at the RP-500C ii. Getting a killer deal on it and I do not have have too much width room under my TV so it'll be more space efficient than the 4 woofer sets. My only concern is the pairing of the RP series center channel with the RF floorstanding. Does it really make that much of a difference? I am not an audiophile by any means, but I can always appreciate a great sounding system and want to make sure I am not regretting anything after. The other option is a gently used RC62 ii. Heard great things about this one as well (but again, is this "timbre matching" really an issue?).

PS: do I also need a second sub? lol

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Wild-Athlete-9133 on 2024-01-10 14:46:31+00:00.


Hello guys, i've been experiencing issues with my Logitech Z906 system.

The system is 1 year old, i already sent it to get a guarantee repair on it, but they sent it back as there is no issue, but its still making the same annoying noise above a specific volume level

The issue is:

60% volume, and above 60% bass, my front left speaker starts to make crippling noises, at 75%, both front left, and right doing the same thing.

I've set up everything by the User Manual.

I have it connected via the factory cables.

For me, might be a dumb conclusion, but it feels like the high satellites taking up the bass from the subwoofer, and its making the noise. Is it possible? How can i solve that issue?

My motherboard is one of the best at am4 side, so i have no idea why its happening.

If a soundcard can solve it, ill get one asap, but i thought the motherboard can handle it well.

Full specs in the bottom.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/shearling1 on 2024-01-10 14:42:55+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/lbraid88 on 2024-01-10 14:33:39+00:00.


Is a 2.0 setup possible with the right speakers? I have limited space (aesthetically) so an amplifier isn't possible. However, my idea was to have speakers directly next to the sofa.

Is this doable or just stupid, and if so, what type of speakers should I be looking to get?

Thanks!

Edit (Wasn't clear): I'm looking to improve the quality of sound coming from the TV as the speakers aren't great. So my thought was to use some type of bookshelf speaker (recommendations need if doable) to improve the sound, whilst bringing it closer.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/yellowroll on 2024-01-10 14:31:49+00:00.


Is this even possible and if so how?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Aveman625 on 2024-01-10 14:08:57+00:00.


Years ago I purchased a JVC THD-50 system. I still love it!

However - the home I moved into doesn’t have great means to mount the rear surround speakers. There is only open walls behind the couch… I’d like to install ceiling speakers and I’m looking for some input.

Current specs on each rear surround are: 200W per channel, RMS at 3 Ω at 1kHz, with 10% THD

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