Home Theater

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For audio visual enthusiasts who want to bring an immersive experience into their homes.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/jeam3131 on 2024-01-09 13:43:20+00:00.


Looking for recommendations on in-wall speakers for use with a phantom center setup (going for 2.1). Ideally $200-$500 each if possible.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/paddyi23 on 2024-01-09 13:42:12+00:00.


Looking for some advice on an issue I’m having. Recently purchased a WiiM Amp and it’s connected via HDMI to my Samsung AU9000 TV’s eARC port.

Initially everything works fine, I can hear audio from my TV and Apple TV through the amp and can control the amp’s volume with my Samsung or Apple TV remote.

The issue arises when I stream audio directly to the WiiM Amp through say Spotify or Amazon music. That plays fine, however it’s when I then go back to watching something on the TV, the TV fails to detect an HDMI signal and TV audio doesn’t come through the amp and the volume button on the Samsung/Apple TV remote adjusts the volume of the television set rather than the amp. It’s almost like the TV ‘forgets’ it has an HDMI connection to the amp.

I’ve found if I pull out the HDMI cable on the tv and put it back in the TV detects it again, and likewise if I toggle on and off in the settings either eARC or Input Signal Plus suddenly the TV detects the connection and audio comes through and volume control works as expected.

I’ve tried using an optical cable instead and the issue doesn’t arise so it definitely seems to be an issue with HDMI. I could just use optical permanently but ideally want to be able to use my Apple TV remote to control volume rather than having to use the Amp remote instead.

I’ve tried adjusting various things in the settings menu such as turning on or off eARC, turning on and off input signal plus etc but the problem keeps coming back each time the audio input source switches from streaming back to HDMI. I’ve also disconnected power and all HDMI connections from the TV and left it unplugged for 30 mins but the issue still remains. Is there anything else I could try?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/valain on 2024-01-09 13:33:44+00:00.


Hello all,

I recently saw a picture of the HT room of a fellow member here, with interesting lighting on the ceiling. I was wondering if one of those (good quality) projectors that display a "starry sky" or the Milky Way onto your ceiling would be a nice "upgrade" to our home cinema experience? If any of you are using such a thing, I would appreciate some subjective feedback. The room in question here has completely white walls and ceiling, if that matters.

One example of a product I have in mind would be this: POCOCO Galaxy Lite Star Projector, Starry Sky Projector Home Planetarium Star Projector Night Light Lamp Baby Children Room Decoration Galaxy Projector for Party Birthday Christmas Gift: Amazon.de: Lighting

Many thanks,

A.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/bigdogslayer on 2024-01-09 13:12:48+00:00.


My space only permits a very skinny center channel think the dimensions of a sound bar. I am looking to pair it with these speakers () front and rear. I know everyone says to match the center channel to the front speakers but it doesn't look like monoprice makes anything that will fit my needs. Can someone recommend a center channel for me? I was also thinking about doing a phantom center (no center channel) but it seems that it only work for the person sitting directly in front of the TV. Thank you in advance.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Holy_Eggs on 2024-01-09 13:09:56+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Acid_Monster on 2024-01-09 12:56:02+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/icimonster on 2024-01-09 12:46:10+00:00.


I’m installing 4 in-ceiling speakers as I put in a ceiling to the basement to have full atmos capabilities someday but for the time being only have a receiver that can support 2- which two should I connect? The front two or back two?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/woodsgb on 2024-01-08 21:47:09+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Seconds_for_fun on 2024-01-08 21:45:17+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/maximm3k on 2024-01-08 14:30:53+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/ramugutt on 2024-01-08 18:43:28+00:00.


Just in btwn these two models x1700h at bestbuy open box cost same as s970h new from Adorama with sd coupons , what will be your suggestion ? Coming from onkyo 5.1 4k, tried onkyo 6050 but would any of these models be an upgrade ? 1700h is older model with 80w , s970h is newer with 90w and new gui

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Pro_Achronox on 2024-01-08 16:49:22+00:00.


Hello, I own the Denon PMA-925R along with two front speakers. I really enjoy its sound quality and am considering adding two rear speakers for my home theater setup. It has the capacity for four speakers (A1, A2, B1, and B2).

However, I'm unsure if connecting two additional speakers to the B side would merely duplicate the sounds from the A side, rather than enhancing the rear audio output.

Can someone help me with this?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/haider993 on 2024-01-09 10:45:11+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Ok_Dirt_8886 on 2024-01-09 10:34:39+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Financial_Concert517 on 2024-01-09 08:46:34+00:00.


I am currently in the market for a new set of speakers for my desktop PC and was hoping the audio experts here might have some suggestions. My budget is around $200 and I'm open to both active and passive speakers.

I should mention that I already have an audio interface (Audient iD4) and an amplifier (AIYIMA A07), so I won't need those included with the speakers.

The primary usage of these speakers would be for gaming, music listening, and movie watching. So, I'm looking for something that can deliver a great sound experience for these activities.

Right now my eyes are on JBL 306P MKII (Active) and JBL A130 (Passive) Speakers. I appreciate any recommendations you might have.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/PreviousAvocado5599 on 2024-01-09 08:32:54+00:00.


Hey guys, I have a 7.1 system at home.

I’m looking to marry the Marantz cinema 40 and use it as a pre amp, to an emotiva XP-9 Gen 3 amp or the emotiva XP-7 Gen 3 amp…

Would these all work well together?

Want to get the most out of my system, 99% home theater/ movies usage.

FL Kef 950 towers Center Kef R6 Meta sides and Rears Q350 bookshelves Sub PB-16 ultra.

Also, I am aware of the power difference between the Marantz cinema 40 and 50, and the 50 is built in Japan, Vs mass produced 40 in China. But will it make a difference in sound quality if I’m using the Marantz as a pre amp anyways?

Lastly, which Emotiva amp would you recommend for my set up? I’m only planning on maybe adding another sub in the future, so keeping it 7.1 maybe 7.2 in the future.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/boyerizm on 2024-01-09 07:53:29+00:00.


Bought an STR-AN1000 receiver used and did not come with a mic or a stand. Bought a replacement mic but the stand does not seem to be available for purchase in the US. Only found some site in Australia that had it on backorder and not available to ship here. Looks like it’s about 8” anyone can confirm?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/sebtheballer on 2024-01-09 07:23:46+00:00.


Hi all - I'm a long time lurker and first time poster in this sub.

I live in a home whose previous owner installed in-ceiling speakers in several rooms that are powered by Denon Heos amps which are, interestingly, located in the garage.

In our family room (a ways from the garage), I currently run a 5.1 system. I'd love to make this a 5.1.2 system by leveraging the already installed ceiling speaker pair that I mentioned above in this particular room. However, I'd still like to be able to use the Heos system and whole home audio setup.

Apologies if this is a n00b question, but is there some sort of "switch" device that I could use that can select either my AVR (to avail 2 atmos channels) or select the currently wired whole home audio setup? Is there any advice on how to specifically wire this and where to place the hardware? Any other things to keep in mind?

Thanks for your help in advance.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Time-Bad4620 on 2024-01-09 07:09:55+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Granto86 on 2024-01-09 05:04:02+00:00.


I’ve been eyeing a 77” LG C3 all year and been saving up for it. It’s been on sale for about $2,500 ever since about Black Friday. I finally got on Sunday to pick it up and find out it’s no longer on sale. Did I miss the last sale that it will go on before they bring out new models? I thought it would stay on sale until around the Super Bowl. Anyone have knowledge about costcos tv sales?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Carneous_Cacoffiny01 on 2024-01-09 05:02:14+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Standard_Flounder988 on 2024-01-09 05:00:09+00:00.


I'm trying to get HDR, I use all the cables and everything but it doesn't activate it. I don't know if there is a hidden menu or something. I hope you can help me. My avr is a Dennon avr-540bt and the manual does not explain how to turn on the hdr, unlike from other brands that give the standard or improved option

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/AarpnSV on 2024-01-09 04:26:18+00:00.


So i have a HTiB (Onkyo HT-S3900, receiver HT-R397) for quite a while now, making replacements mainly on the speakers side. I currently ordered a new subwoofer (monoprice premium select 8-inch 200-watt) and reading the specs sheet i noticed It have a 4-ohm impedance rating.

My receiver is rated for 6-16ohm impedance, can this be a problem in the future? Should i keep It at low volume from the receiver side? As the sub Is active and it has speaker-level inputs in It

Any consideration i should make, should i cancel the order?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/CalvinHobbesN7 on 2024-01-09 04:23:22+00:00.


Three weeks ago I wrote a post asking people for their opinion on running dual subs. I had the opportunity to buy a second matching subwoofer from a local guy at a very favorable price. I went for it! Because of the low price, I also opted to purchase a MiniDSP UMIK-1 to calibrate them properly for volume level and delay using REW and the MiniDSP 2x4 HD (which I already own for BassEQ). The following are the raw measurements of my previous single sub, the raw dual sub (calibrated for volume and delay only), and the calibrated dual sub via DIRAC Live in my Onkyo TX-NR7100.

The subwoofers are both SVS model PB-1000. These are not the "Pro" versions that are available on the market today. Still great subs though!

Before presenting the results, I just want to thank the YouTube channel, Home Theater Gamer, who's videos were astronomically helpful during this process. He has a 4-part series:

While great videos to get started, I want to add an additional note to his videos.

  • On Windows, simply visit Control Panel / Sound / Select your output / Configure. From here, you can select what kind of output you want to send to your receiver. I opted for 5.1, and was able to select and output directly to the LFE track.
  • Using "Direct" listening mode on my Onkyo receiver disabled the existing Dirac Live calibration, and used only the distance and level adjustments. The volume was set accordingly from there. NOTE: This leaves the LPF of LFE setting left on, disable it! (generally found in "Crossover" settings)

Now, on to my measured results.

You will notice three lines in each measurement chart. These are three seating positions on my straight 4-cushion couch, being the CENTER, the LEFT SEAT, and the RIGHT SEAT. The X axis is Hz, and Db is on the Y.

**Update: The same graphs have been updated from their original upload with new colors for improved readability against a dark backdrop**

Measurements - Single Sub (Front Left of Room) (RAW)

These measurements are taken from a single sub, in the front left corner of my room. This location was previously selected using the subwoofer crawl method (More on that in a future post). This measurement was taken RAW, with only level calibration utilized. No Digital EQ has been applied.

Measurements – Dual Sub (Front Left + Back Right of Room)

These measurements are taken from a dual sub configuration - the Front Left and Back Right corners of the room. This measurement is taken with both level and delay calibration for time alignment between the two subs in the MiniDSP. No Digital EQ has been applied.

As can be seen in these raw measurements, having dual subs levels out the response curve beautifully across every seat. Tones haven't only been amplified, they've been balanced out. My theater has a natural null from 70-140 Hz with a single sub in the front left corner. Having dual subs in opposite corners has raised and flattened those tones to elimiate the null and match the levels fairly consistently across the spectrum. With a crossover of 60-80Hz for my speakers the issues above 120Hz will be nonexistent.

The consistency from seat to seat has improved dramatically as well, even before the application of a Digital EQ. Which, speaking of a Digital EQ, now it's time to put DIRAC to work on my Onkyo receiver. Lets look at the results.

Measurements - Single Sub (Front Left) with DIRAC Digital EQ from my receiver

Measurements - Dual Sub (Front Left + Back Right) with DIRAC Digital EQ from my Receiver

For a single sub, this isn't too bad! Dirac did a very decent job leveling out the response curve, and each seat, while varying a bit, are still fairly consistent with this EQ. However, the dual sub configuration is much tighter aligned! It's great to know that all the main seats in the theater are getting a similar bass experience (within reasonable variation). Regarding the null at 130hz in the left seat with dual sub, no room can be perfect, but it should be largely inaudible due to the crossover. Other than that things look great.

You may wonder why I opted to use DIRAC Live to calibrate instead of the MiniDSP as others would assume. The reason is because of my other speakers. It's simply easier to run DIRAC and let it do its magic. In the future, as I have been having fun with this UMIK-1 calibration mic, I'll be writing a bit about DIRAC specifically. My next adventure will be to add a house curve using DIRAC manual adjustments in my receiver.

Evaluating my experience - Beyond the Measurements

Without a doubt, adding a second subwoofer has greatly enhanced my theater! After having friends and family sit in the seats and watch, it was collectively agreed that the bass felt deeper, however, it was also collectively agreed that the bass wasn't necessarily louder either. We watched a few different scenes to evaluate it:

  • Frozen II - Earth Giants and Dam Burst (1:17:00)
  • Master and Commander - First Naval Battle (with BassEQ) (0:06:00)
  • Top Gun: Maverick - Final Assault (with BassEQ) (1:30:00)

That was the amazing thing though - it didn't feel like the bass was overpowering each scene of the movie, it was simply more present. After all, the subwoofers and the total bass level are calibrated to match with the other speakers. It's difficult to describe, but despite not being "louder" than the other channels, we now have more bass.

One significant thing to note is that the UMIK-1 microphone is measuring in mono. It can't record a stereo experience. Having dual subs in two opposite corners of the room made the source of the bass simply disappear into the room entirely. While it was difficult to pinpoint before with a single sub, it was impossible after the addition. The bass is everywhere, all at once.

I have been absolutely converted to multi-sub. My system went from sounding great, to sounding incredible.

Analysis of all 9.2 channels in the theater (Dual Sub - DIRAC). A crossover is applied for each speaker, which is the reason all speakers are showing a great response at 20Hz.

Speaking of opposite corners, lets segway into a fun experiment.

Bonus Material - Dual Subs placed in the same location (Spoiler: It was bad!)

Here is a chart with an amusing and unusual setup - stacking the two subwoofers on top of each other in the front left of the room, where I previously had one. My father was curious about my desire to run a 50ft cable to the back of my theater room and wondered "why not just put them in the same place? the cable is already there!" So, when you have a calibration microphone, why not experiment? I was curious too - but the results speak for themselves in case you were wondering if you could do the same.

Dual Subs, stacked on top of each other, in the Front Left corner of the room. If you have two subwoofers, this is likely a TERRIBLE position in your room. Both calibrated individually for level, with no delay difference.

As we can see, the listening experience has declined severely from seat to seat, with one listener experiencing severe nulls while another seat just a few feet away experiences a peak.

I hope this has been informative, and I'd like to thank you for reading.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Luke14789 on 2024-01-09 04:12:35+00:00.


Hey all, I put together a brief documentation of building out our media room. Somewhat of a dream for me, and my first run at it. Most of everything sound equipment wise was bought either refurbished, recertified, or bought in an outlet. Really wanted to keep costs as low as possible. Some decisions had to be made based on wife approval factor. All in all, not counting the TV, furniture, paint, flooring etc, the audio stuff came out to be right around $4300.

It's all detailed in this post if anyone is interested: ****

Some highlights:

  • Sony A80J 65 OLED (preowned)

  • Denon X2700H

  • KEF Q250C Center

  • KEF Q350 L/R

  • Polk RC60i and RC65i for overhead and rear surrounds

  • SVS PC-2000 Pro

  • AC Infinity Fans including Receiver Fan

  • Dayton Audio Bass Shakers

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