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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/userwithname2 on 2024-01-07 19:35:18+00:00.

I am moving to a new home with a rather small living room. The setup I'm currently planning has a distance of 2.3m / 7.5 ft between couch and TV. Looking at the rtings guide, it recommends 55".

TV Size to Distance Calculator and Science - RTINGS.com

I have a 65" TV in my current flat, but I won't be able to bring it due to moving to another continent. I don't really want to downgrade, but also don't want a TV that's too big and uncomfortable to watch.

What TV size would you recommend me to buy?

Thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/kabal8 on 2024-01-07 19:24:08+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/fpsb0b306 on 2024-01-07 19:22:02+00:00.

I decided to make a drawing (at bottom of post Imgur link) of what I am describing for my current home theatre setup. I am just not sure if such a device exists, and im not really sure how to articulate what I am describing in a google search. So I am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.

I have a desktop PC in my basement with a three monitor setup at my desk. In addition, I also have, in my basement, a 65" 120hz TV I like to occasionally game on from my PC, by running a long HDMI cable across my floor into my TV. This HDMI cable is fibre optic, in order for me to get a proper 4k resolution, and 120HZ / FPS on said games over that distance to work properly (Already done a ton of testing on this, so this is the cable I need, and this cant be replaced. This may be relevant later, im not sure so I am mentioning it here)

Now as I am sure alot of people know, connecting TV's to a GPU can make windows do wierd annoying things when these TV's are powered on or off. Like Windows seeing it as "connected" and "disconnected" whenever a device is plugged in and powered on or off. I am not looking to troubleshoot anything in windows here, as I have been trying to find a software solution for this for ages and have given up as this seems to just be a limitation of windows / TV software conflicts etc. I am not looking to troubleshoot this, just giving some context.

Right now, the "best" solution I can come up with is just simply leaving the HDMI behind my computer unplugged and sort of floating above its port. If I want to game or send my PC screen over to my PC, I jump up on my desk, and plug that cable in. I can deal with the windows stuff at that moment. But for the amount of time I actually use my PC on the TV isnt often, so I usually just leave this unplugged. As leaving it plugged in all the time, when I turn on my TV it just makes annoying things happen on my PC automatically changing audio outputs etc. Again, not trying to troubleshoot this element.

What I AM wondering, and asking in this post however, is if such a device exists as some kind of intermediary between the HDMI cable coming out of my TV > graphics card HDMI port. Possibly some kind of device between those two connections that can be physically powered off with maybe a small remote, or button that can physically sever the connection between the PC and the TV. So I am not needing to hop onto my desk every time I do want to do this and fiddle around trying to plug this thing in. My thought process is, if such a device can actually essentially "severe" the connection, where when it is in its "off" state, then the TV doesn't know its connected to a computer, and when its in its "on" state, those two devices can communicate again.

Forgive my terrible art, but it was the easiest way I could think to Illustrate how my setup looks, and what I am proposing as my question to see if such a device exists.

Illustration of basement layout, and connected devices ->

TL:DR - Is there such a thing as a little box, or device or something that can act as a "kill-switch" of sorts, or a 'connection severe' between two HDMI connected endpoints. (Computer graphics card -> Television) where the device would have a button or remote to either establish the connection, or cut it off.

Thank-you in advance, hopefully that made sense.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Dave_W_T on 2024-01-07 18:51:08+00:00.

I have an older Samsung Plasma PN58B550T2F that has HDMI 1.3 inputs and 1-Optical output. In the front of the TV it says “Dolby Digital” and “SRS TrueSoundHD”. I have a Roku Ultra and a Direct TV DVR plugged into the HDMI inputs on the TV. I am looking at purchasing an older AVR like the Denon AVR-483. The Denon has no HDMI inputs. It has an Optical In. My question is: If I run an optical Cable from the TV out to the AVR will I get 5.1 surround sound from the Roku or the Direct TV box?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/fpsb0b306 on 2024-01-07 19:22:02+00:00.

I decided to make a drawing (at bottom of post Imgur link) of what I am describing for my current home theatre setup. I am just not sure if such a device exists, and im not really sure how to articulate what I am describing in a google search. So I am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.

I have a desktop PC in my basement with a three monitor setup at my desk. In addition, I also have, in my basement, a 65" 120hz TV I like to occasionally game on from my PC, by running a long HDMI cable across my floor into my TV. This HDMI cable is fibre optic, in order for me to get a proper 4k resolution, and 120HZ / FPS on said games over that distance to work properly (Already done a ton of testing on this, so this is the cable I need, and this cant be replaced. This may be relevant later, im not sure so I am mentioning it here)

Now as I am sure alot of people know, connecting TV's to a GPU can make windows do wierd annoying things when these TV's are powered on or off. Like Windows seeing it as "connected" and "disconnected" whenever a device is plugged in and powered on or off. I am not looking to troubleshoot anything in windows here, as I have been trying to find a software solution for this for ages and have given up as this seems to just be a limitation of windows / TV software conflicts etc. I am not looking to troubleshoot this, just giving some context.

Right now, the "best" solution I can come up with is just simply leaving the HDMI behind my computer unplugged and sort of floating above its port. If I want to game or send my PC screen over to my PC, I jump up on my desk, and plug that cable in. I can deal with the windows stuff at that moment. But for the amount of time I actually use my PC on the TV isnt often, so I usually just leave this unplugged. As leaving it plugged in all the time, when I turn on my TV it just makes annoying things happen on my PC automatically changing audio outputs etc. Again, not trying to troubleshoot this element.

What I AM wondering, and asking in this post however, is if such a device exists as some kind of intermediary between the HDMI cable coming out of my TV > graphics card HDMI port. Possibly some kind of device between those two connections that can be physically powered off with maybe a small remote, or button that can physically sever the connection between the PC and the TV. So I am not needing to hop onto my desk every time I do want to do this and fiddle around trying to plug this thing in. My thought process is, if such a device can actually essentially "severe" the connection, where when it is in its "off" state, then the TV doesn't know its connected to a computer, and when its in its "on" state, those two devices can communicate again.

Forgive my terrible art, but it was the easiest way I could think to Illustrate how my setup looks, and what I am proposing as my question to see if such a device exists.

Illustration of basement layout, and connected devices ->

TL:DR - Is there such a thing as a little box, or device or something that can act as a "kill-switch" of sorts, or a 'connection severe' between two HDMI connected endpoints. (Computer graphics card -> Television) where the device would have a button or remote to either establish the connection, or cut it off.

Thank-you in advance, hopefully that made sense.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Jay__B____93 on 2024-01-07 18:39:55+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/threegigs on 2024-01-07 19:15:22+00:00.

After an unpleasant experience surrounding the purchase of a 4k TV many years ago (different HDMI specs, HDCP issues, graphics cards not having HDMI ports, passthrough issues, ARC issues, etc.), this time around I've been researching what to buy for a home theater/gaming setup in my too small and oddly shaped man cave (aka spare bedroom that served/serves as a home office).

TV will be Samsung S90c/S95C or LG C3/G3, still narrowing that down, if it makes a difference in compatibility or if anyone has encountered setup issues I'd love to hear more.

Speakers are Jamo s606 (front, center, satellite) with a B&W AS6 sub. I'm planning to add 2 ceiling speakers eventually, however the room shape and size isn't all that conducive to a really good Atmos/DTS setup, so I'd like to experiment with 7.1 and 5.1.2 setups (I am assuming the rear surrounds won't sound right due to placement issues, but since most receivers let you reassign 2 channels, it's a cost-free experiment).

My main goal isn't loudness (shared wall with the neighbors [edit] and the room is 11x17 [/edit]), or getting that last percent or two in sound quality (it'd be lost on my older ears), what I really want is a setup that "just works".

Planned setup: TV will be connected to the receiver via eARC, and a PC (3080Ti), Blu-ray player, Apple TV 4k/Nvidia Shield Pro, and potentially a console will be connected to the AVR (i.e. everything gets fed to the TV through the receiver).

I'll be using it mostly for movies (BR disc, some BR rips on my PC) and streaming (Netflix and Prime via built-in apps or from the PC), but if it's a decent improvement over my monitor I'll use it for gaming from time to time too (PC for now, possibly PlayStation in the future for guests), and might even use it for YouTube vids or just internet browsing from the couch.

From my research, I've come up with the following 7-channel receivers that fit my price range (Europe):

• Denon AVR-X2800H
• Denon AVR-X1800H
• Denon AVR-S970H
• Denon AVR-S770H
• Marantz Cinema 70S
• Pioneer VSX-935
• ~~Yamaha RX-V6A~~ (thank you for that info, u/umdivx)
• Onkyo TX-NR6100
• Onkyo TX-NR5100

From reading through this sub, I'm guessing the AVR-2800H will get the nod, as the 3800 seems to be the most-recommended receiver here, however since they're all roughly the same price (oddly the S770H is more expensive than the S970H), and I wouldn't notice any real world difference in sound quality (room setup software aside), I'm more focused on missing capabilities, incompatibilities, reliability (Onkyo HDMI ports I'm looking at you), and support/updates.

Sony also has a unit out, the TA-AN1000, but it has no tuner and is priced higher than the units above, so I didn't include it.

I've owned Yamaha (2000-ish, was rock solid stereo), Sony (quirky but reliable, had no HDMI though, ran 5 analog channels to it from the PC and optical from the TV), Marantz (currently in use in the living room and connected to the TV via ARC), and Pioneer (one of the front channel amps stopped working, which led to the Marantz).

I'd love to hear about any frustrations anyone has with any of the above units, or problems, quirks, limitations, etc., especially as regards using it between their PC and TV.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/gbaby713 on 2024-01-07 19:14:32+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/MyBrainsPOV on 2024-01-07 18:05:35+00:00.

After some interaction here and further research I am hoping to do Round 2 of asking for advice/feedback in regards to what is now my plan to start upgrading our living room setup over the next year or two. The picture here is a true to scale representation of my living room. I took my robot vacuum's floor plan and traced what you see below and erased everything else.

Primarily we sit between the corner piece of the couch down to to the "cuddler" section to watch movies and I sit in the recliner to play games.

We recently upgraded our tv to a Sony Bravia X90K 85" on a Monoprice 44486 wall mount.

We currently have a Denon S510BT and I am heavily leaning towards the S760H although I was also looking at the S970H. I'm going to likely wait until there's a sale and am hoping to be in the $300-400 range. All media currently connects directly to the TV with optical out to the receiver but would like to use eArc and pass through everything through a single HDMI cable.

We stream everything (Netflix, Prime, MAX, Disney, Youtube) through a Roku Ultra.

We have an XBOX X and may get a PS5 in the future. Right now the XBOX is how we watch dvd/bluray and if we get a PS5 may switch over to that as I've heard it's a bit better. Probably 1% of movies we watch are on disk so I do not currently have plans to buy a dedicated player.

We are currently using Zeskit Maya 2.1 Ultra HDMI cables on the XBOX and Roku.

And lastly speakers: We have Micca MB42X center and L/R speakers and a Polk PSW108. I'd like to upgrade to either tower speakers or bookshelf on stands, a matching center, and am open to upgrading the subwoofer.

For movie watching we usually listen at around volume 67 with this current setup. It's a decent sound but if I can get clearer dialogue and more immersive sound then I'm all in. My wife doesnt like the rumble of the sub so we keep it low but maybe a better punchier sub that provides better sound without shaking the house would make sense. Clearer louder dialogue would be amazing. My wife is partially deaf and we'll always use subtitles but would be a better experience for her if she could make out some of the dialogue better.

Right now I'm just planning to upgrade my current 3.1 to a better 3.1 but am open to 5.1 and beyond down the road. I have wall mounts for side speakers if we decide to go that route (if we can make it make sense in this room layout) and maybe I can repurpose my Micca speakers as side/rear later on. If not I have a tv in my bedroom maybe we can do something in there with them.

I appreciate any and all help and promise to be open minded. My previous interactions here have opened me up to this point so I appreciate all of those conversations as well. Thank you!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/GManStar on 2024-01-07 19:14:23+00:00.

Hello

I am trying to setup my home theatre. Need help in figuring out if I am doing the right thing (after reading this sub):

Family Room (has TV):

• 2x MartinLogan - Helos 12 6-1/2"

• KEF HTF7003 passive soundbar (3 channel)

Living Room: 2x MartinLogan - Helos 12 6-1/2"

For receiver:

Denon S760H: 7.2-channel, 75W per channel

• 6 HDMI Inputs & 1 HDMI Output with HDCP 2.3 Support

I want to be able to play music in the living room independently while watching TV in the Family Room.

My questions are:

1. Can I use one of these Denon receivers to achieve independent living room / family room configuration or do I need two?
2. Do I also need a sub-woofer for my HT config in the Family room?

Anything else I am not thinking about? (sorry for newbie questions, but this is the first time I am upgrading from the active soundbar configs).

Thanks

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/gregkiel on 2024-01-07 17:49:49+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Ar_Pi on 2024-01-07 19:12:18+00:00.

Hi All,

I got a room in new house I want to make HT. Everything was already pre-wired. I need it all in-wall. I could have done it myself but I just don't have the patience/time for it.

I must say that the quotes I got sounds to be way too much. Like do I need a projector screen for 6K? I want to know if this is a decent price and quality of items before I continue talking with installer and not waste anyone's time.

This is one quote I got:

ITEMS SELL PRICE QTY Epson Pro Cinema LS12000 4K PRO-UHD Laser Projector $4,899.00

x1 Chief Projector Mounts HB010R $249.00

x1 Screen Innovations S3TE150PW 150 - Solo3 -16:9 - Pure White - Ext $5,799.00

x1 URC MX790 MX-790 | IR/RF Universal Remote Control $349.00

x1 URC MRF-350-2 URC RF TO IR BASE STATION 433 MHZ $249.95

x1 KEF CI4100QL-THX KEF Ultra-Thin Uni-Q THX Rectangle Spkr $549.00 x7

Anthem MRX 740-8K MRX 740-8K 11.2 Pre-Amplifier / 7 Amplifier Channel A/V Receiver $2,899.00

x1 KEF KASA500 Kef Speakers Ci KASA500 Class-D Dual 250WPC amplifier (EACH) $950.00

x1 KEF Ci200QSb-THX Dual set of in-wall square subwoofers, THX Ultra2 / Select2 certified $899.00

x1 Wavenet CBTF-WM-12UD5N WAVENET CBTF-WM-12UD5N 12 Space Wall Mount Cabinet $579.00

x1 Strong SR-SHELF-2U Strong Rack Shelf - 2U $35.00

x3 NICE Brands 248-783 Furman M-8x2 Power Conditioner 15A $90.00

x1 KEF RIF4100L KEF 4100 Rectangle Rough-In Frame $25.00 x7

Ethereal MHY-SHDME-6FT 6FT HDMI CABLE HIGH SPEED W/ETHERNET SMALL HEAD Shell $20.00 x3

Mount motorized 150" Screen , mount 4K Projector, Install (7) In wall surround sound speakers and (2) In wall subwoofers, Setup AVR and amplifier inside a Wall Mounted AV Rack. A Universal Remote control will also be setup and programmed for ease of use with the system. $3,000.00

x1 Shipping Expense Shipping cost will be factored in at the time of ordering. $150.00

Total: $24,145.95

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Naive_Comedian_5243 on 2024-01-07 19:05:46+00:00.

Im looking into getting a new TV. Nothing crazy special but I do appreciate good quality. A long time ago, I had a Sony which lasted a good awhile. when I upgraded the size I replaced it with a Samsung and again no complaints there either. Unfortunately the Samsung got stolen and I replaced it with an LG. So far the LG has given me the most issues, it's the one I still have. The wifi no longer works, the color is very blue ish even when playing with the settings, and you can see some spots on the scree was though somethings going bad with some of the bulbs or something similar. I ask bc there is a really good deal on an open box LG at the moment but im hesitant to get another LG after this one. What have your experiences been like?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/GigaHertz8771 on 2024-01-07 17:13:43+00:00.

I've been getting into the home theater side of things recently (I work in live audio), and I'm currently looking for a decently priced subwoofer that would cover the bottom low end and mesh well with my current LCR setup.

I have two floorstanding Eosone RSF-600's for my LR and an Eosone RSF-300 for my center channel. At the moment I'm absolutely loving how they sound, and the low end of the RSF-600's is honestly very impressive. The freq. response of the 600's is 35hz-22khz.

People who have experience with these speakers/these kinds of speakers - what would you recommend?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/hamburglin on 2024-01-07 19:04:14+00:00.

I've loved music my whole life and played instruments live. Both orchestra and band settings. I've only ever had expensive headphones (1k-2k for headphone alone) along with very specifically tuned parametric EQs to my liking, but my home theater setup has never been anything more than a cheap $500~ all in one receiver and (small as hell) speaker combo.

Well, I just got a 5.1.2 setup in my 14x30ft living room. It's essentially a Polk ES series setup with a Monolith 10" sub. I've got the ES20 for front L/R, ES30 for C, ES10's for satellites and ES90's for up firing. Dennon x6700H receiver that I chose because it has enough power to not needexternal amps.

After initial setup, I instantly realized that the room sounded too bright and hollow. I ran Audyssey room EQ from the app to get a flat curve and adjusted over time from there. I instantly loved how it smoothed 20-250hz. The bass sweep felt great, if missing a little around 20hz due to my sub only being 10". Did I mention I'm a bass head? I was very surprised that the low end was loud enough all the way down and incredibly happy with the volume evenness. However, It was still too bright. I'm about 12-14ft on average from most of the speakers.

Here are the settings I settled on:

Movies (Atmos)

Auddyssey/EQ

• Flat reference curve from Audyssey
• Dynamic EQ: On and set to 15db (I waffled between 10 and 15db, but decided to turn up the sub and keep it at 15db, otherwise it would get too boomy in some parts of movies at lower listening levels when at 10db). I hate that this also raises the high end. It makes the high end sound terrible.
• High frequency curve: Setting 2 (extra drop)
• Cinema EQ: On (Yes, on with the high frequency curve on as well. The sound is just way too bright for extended listening otherwise, especially with dynamic EQ on)
• Auro3d (if used) - Unchanged. Medium and 10

Levels

• I dropped the center channel about 2-3db from Audyssey's setting. I'm using the first 30 seconds of Mad Max as one of my tests. My goal is to have the seat shake from the rumble of the engine on the first two revs (third doesn't have any bass for some reason), without Tom Hardy's voice coming in and punching me in the face from the center speaker with "My name is Max..."
• I dropped the satellite speakers db by 2-3db as well. Much too apparent in the opening of mad max, and I like satellites to be present
• I had to tune the front right up half a db as there was a tendency to lean left. Maybe it's my ears but who knows
• I turned up the up firing ES90s by 0.5db because I found them too quiet. Ultimately, I've realized that they need to be raised up a foot or two to get a better overhead effect, and I can't do that right now

Crossovers

• Front L/R @ 60hz. These ES20's can go down to 40hz, but they've lost -10b at that point. This crossover was key to punchy bass drums in metal music. Even at 80hz, the punch was noticeably missing and the sound was slightly boomier/muddier due to the subwoofer handling this alone. I will definitely be upgrading these to speakers that can handle down to 40hz flat at some point. Smaller speakers punching out 40-60hz is super interesting and tight. I wasn't expecting this experience.
• Center and dolby upfiring - 100hz. Same idea as above. These can go to 75hz but lose -10db doing it. Feels pointless with a sub. The upfiring don't have a port, either. These might go to 80 at some point for a smoother transition to the sub.
• Satellites - 120hz
• Sub - I waffle between 80hz and 100hz. 80 for cleanliness, 100 for picking up the center and dolbys.

Music (Auro 3D)

Auro 3D is amazing in my opinion. It adds depth not only in the bottom end, but physically around and above you as well, without sacrificing for noise floor or other weirdness. Enough so, that I'd never consider listening to the music in 2 or 3 way again. I get the best of both worlds: clean music that feels somewhat live.

The settings are basically the same above with a few tweaks:

• Auro 3d left at medium and but 8. I can tell quite the difference between 8 and 10 and keep going back and forth. 8 sounds more balanced EQ wise, but 10 sounds much more present around me, if a tad bright. The Small setting is definitely too narrow, and large makes anything but movies and orchestra music sound too massive and unreal
• Dynamic EQ on and set to 10db. A little more bass and treble felt better for music to me, compared to 15db
• High end rolloff #1 instead of #2, and I also still have Cinema EQ on. It can be a little bright after 10 minutes of listening to it loud, but it adds some needed depth back to the top end compared to rolloff #2. Again, I'm also fighting the Dynamic EQ
• Cranked the center WAY down to -10db compared to the front L/R. I don't want the center to be the loudest. I want its presence to be slightly even or under the front L/R to blend in, not stick out, which is exactly where -10db put it with the auro 3d settings I'm using.

Other than that, my wife is super happy that we can hear voices in movies now! I was actually half expecting to still need to turn the volume up and down depending on if we wanted to hear voices well or not, without killing our ears when the action started back up.

I can also hear a lot of little things in movies and very dynamic music like orchestras that I've never heard before.

I have also noticed that Audyssey really raised the noise floor though, and kept me from hitting 80db without clipping in specific bass heavy music and scenes. Not that I'd sit there and listen to anything that loud for extended periods of time, anyways.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Competitive_Weird958 on 2024-01-07 15:30:33+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Dave_W_T on 2024-01-07 18:51:08+00:00.

I have an older Samsung Plasma PN58B550T2F that has HDMI 1.3 inputs and 1-Optical output. In the front of the TV it says “Dolby Digital” and “SRS TrueSoundHD”. I have a Roku Ultra and a Direct TV DVR plugged into the HDMI inputs on the TV. I am looking at purchasing an older AVR like the Denon AVR-483. The Denon has no HDMI inputs. It has an Optical In. My question is: If I run an optical Cable from the TV out to the AVR will I get 5.1 surround sound from the Roku or the Direct TV box?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/MyBrainsPOV on 2024-01-07 18:05:35+00:00.

After some interaction here and further research I am hoping to do Round 2 of asking for advice/feedback in regards to what is now my plan to start upgrading our living room setup over the next year or two. The picture here is a true to scale representation of my living room. I took my robot vacuum's floor plan and traced what you see below and erased everything else.

Primarily we sit between the corner piece of the couch down to to the "cuddler" section to watch movies and I sit in the recliner to play games.

We recently upgraded our tv to a Sony Bravia X90K 85" on a Monoprice 44486 wall mount.

We currently have a Denon S510BT and I am heavily leaning towards the S760H although I was also looking at the S970H. I'm going to likely wait until there's a sale and am hoping to be in the $300-400 range. All media currently connects directly to the TV with optical out to the receiver but would like to use eArc and pass through everything through a single HDMI cable.

We stream everything (Netflix, Prime, MAX, Disney, Youtube) through a Roku Ultra.

We have an XBOX X and may get a PS5 in the future. Right now the XBOX is how we watch dvd/bluray and if we get a PS5 may switch over to that as I've heard it's a bit better. Probably 1% of movies we watch are on disk so I do not currently have plans to buy a dedicated player.

We are currently using Zeskit Maya 2.1 Ultra HDMI cables on the XBOX and Roku.

And lastly speakers: We have Micca MB42X center and L/R speakers and a Polk PSW108. I'd like to upgrade to either tower speakers or bookshelf on stands, a matching center, and am open to upgrading the subwoofer.

For movie watching we usually listen at around volume 67 with this current setup. It's a decent sound but if I can get clearer dialogue and more immersive sound then I'm all in. My wife doesnt like the rumble of the sub so we keep it low but maybe a better punchier sub that provides better sound without shaking the house would make sense. Clearer louder dialogue would be amazing. My wife is partially deaf and we'll always use subtitles but would be a better experience for her if she could make out some of the dialogue better.

Right now I'm just planning to upgrade my current 3.1 to a better 3.1 but am open to 5.1 and beyond down the road. I have wall mounts for side speakers if we decide to go that route (if we can make it make sense in this room layout) and maybe I can repurpose my Micca speakers as side/rear later on. If not I have a tv in my bedroom maybe we can do something in there with them.

I appreciate any and all help and promise to be open minded. My previous interactions here have opened me up to this point so I appreciate all of those conversations as well. Thank you!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/gregkiel on 2024-01-07 17:49:49+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Competitive_Weird958 on 2024-01-07 15:30:33+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/SP3NGL3R on 2024-01-06 23:49:27+00:00.

Original Title: A practical home theater for some (and a bar for 'us'). It's not fancy, but we sure love it and the flexibility it offers. ... Just thought maybe something a little different on here for a change. Hate it, love it, don't matter ... we love it :).

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/idiotdumbdumbhead on 2024-01-07 14:52:11+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/busbybob on 2024-01-07 15:00:35+00:00.

Q acoustics 2000 series (4 satellites, centre and sub) and onkyo TX NR 609

I can get this used for £300. Worth it or are these out dated now? I dont want to buy them if in 6 months im buying something else. If i didnt buy these id be looking at 1k budget for centre left right and receiver. Add sub and surrounds later

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Professor_What on 2024-01-07 14:47:21+00:00.

How big is too big for a home theater? Stop at 5.1? Go to 7.2.4? Maybe 9.2.6?

How do you know what the is objectively better in the room?

I want to start small and build up. But I don't want to buy a receiver that can't handle my end goal.

I'm going to purchase a Denon AVR, but trying to decide between the models. If I won't end up using the extra channels, why spend out on it, when I can throw that towards another part of the system?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/EriEri2020 on 2024-01-07 14:46:19+00:00.

I have tried to find the differences, but it seems that they measure the same. The Denon has the Amp for the same price, which - even if you are using your own external amps - is a nice to have, especially if it is "free" compared to the Marantz - for instance maybe you can use some of the Denon's channels for peripheral speakers.

So, what is the point of buying the Marantz over the Denon? Does it have more features? Does it have better sound due to not having the amps inside?

Also a quick side question: does any of the two allow targeted multispeaker stereo? e.g. if I want the multispeaker stereo to play only at my surround speakers (or any vombination I want) - is this possible? My current denon 6700 when in multispeaker stereo is only all speakers in, something not always desirable since some of my speakers perform better than others..

Many thanks!