Home Theater

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Teacup91 on 2023-12-30 04:15:41+00:00.

Hi. This is the first time I have a big TV (77in LG C3). I'm mounting it with Sanus VuePoint FLF424KIT (). However, the top of the mount barely have enough clearance to secure the TV brackets to the arm (). I did secure with the bottom screw, but still I feel like this wouldn't safely hold the TV and one day it might trip. Am I just being paranoid or should I get another mount?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/gingerbreadraza on 2023-12-30 04:11:39+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/nilgoc on 2023-12-30 03:28:49+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/zzhuang on 2023-12-29 23:23:25+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/mmoore327 on 2023-12-29 16:53:47+00:00.

I'm considering purchasing a Samsung 55" NEO QLED TV ()

I want to mount it on this large wooden frame that look like a an artist easel (heavy duty/solid - clamps down on TV at top so held firmly between top and bottom). I currently have an old 44" Sony Bravia on the easel and I haven't had any problems (10+ years) but am a little concerned with the new thinner TVs if I will run into any problems having it sit on it's bottom edge. The TV is 48" wide and will be supported in the middle 30" of the base of the TV.

Interested in any info or thoughts you have.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Nikunj2002 on 2023-12-29 16:01:00+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/cthart on 2023-12-29 15:21:41+00:00.

Currently we have a 32" Full HD non-smart TV which we want to replace with a 55" 4K smart TV.

We also have

• an Apple TV (Full HD) mainly used for Netflix, HBO Max, and SVT Play (Swedish public TV streaming service);
• a set-top box for live TV channels from our internet provider (4K) which basically only gets used to watch sport -- and technically it's possible to run the TV app from our provider on the Apple TV for this too; and
• a Blu-Ray player (Full HD) for nostalgia.

Our current AVR (Denon X2000) doesn't support 4K -- well technically it does, but it doesn't do HDCP 2.2, so basically it doesn't.

The setup right now has the three boxes and the TV connected to the AVR.

As I understand it, it would also work to connect the three boxes to the TV, and then the TV to the AVR via the ARC port -- and this would get around the AVR not passing through 4K content.

My wife wants to replace the Apple TV with a newer version, though I'm leaning towards just using apps in the TV. She would appreciate having one less box and one less remote though, so I think that will be an easy sell.

So how should we connect things? HDMI to TV (assuming enough ports) and then TV to AVR? We don't use up-scaling and such in the AVR, it's basically just an HDMI switch and an amplifier to the speakers. I'd rather not have to replace the AVR which functions just fine as an amp.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/quancita on 2023-12-30 06:14:17+00:00.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for a 50ft or longer quality HDMI cable that’s arc compatible for 4k? I’m only interested in audio quality transmission as I’m using video from my TV, but not sure if that means I can get away with a cheaper cable. I have a cheap non fiber optic cable and the sound just keeps cutting out, so I figure it’s time to pay up for a fiber optic cable. Looking on Amazon, a lot of reviews still have issues with signal, so I’m wondering if someone here has had a good experience with a specific cable.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Delicious_Soup_5572 on 2023-12-30 05:50:47+00:00.

I don't really feel much bass from the sub lately and I think something got messed up with the settings or connections over time. A lot of times the sub never even turns on. I never touched any of the connections or settings since the system was setup in 2007 (not by me), so that was a long time ago. The only setting I played with is the crossover frequency which I now have set to 80. Anyway I just wanted to check if I have everything connected and set correctly

• single wire from back of subwoofer (right only) connected to Pre Out on receiver
• the other two switches haven't been touched since purchase (LFE and Phase) Are they ok as is?
• crossover set to 80 on sub and on receiver (i think this was originally set to something like 110 but then I lowered it after reading some recommendations online)
• receiver set to LFE
• front speakers set to Large
• center channel set to Small (tried large and I like large better, more rich sound but it was originally set to small)
• volume on sub is set to less than 5 on the dial (out of 10). What am I supposed to set this to?
• auto calibration was done on the receiver at setup (Denon AVR 1907)

Is everything reasonably correct? Anything I should fix, change?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/ggyeettye on 2023-12-30 05:40:47+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/quancita on 2023-12-30 06:14:17+00:00.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for a 50ft or longer quality HDMI cable that’s arc compatible for 4k? I’m only interested in audio quality transmission as I’m using video from my TV, but not sure if that means I can get away with a cheaper cable. I have a cheap non fiber optic cable and the sound just keeps cutting out, so I figure it’s time to pay up for a fiber optic cable. Looking on Amazon, a lot of reviews still have issues with signal, so I’m wondering if someone here has had a good experience with a specific cable.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Delicious_Soup_5572 on 2023-12-30 05:50:47+00:00.

I don't really feel much bass from the sub lately and I think something got messed up with the settings or connections over time. A lot of times the sub never even turns on. I never touched any of the connections or settings since the system was setup in 2007 (not by me), so that was a long time ago. The only setting I played with is the crossover frequency which I now have set to 80. Anyway I just wanted to check if I have everything connected and set correctly

• single wire from back of subwoofer (right only) connected to Pre Out on receiver
• the other two switches haven't been touched since purchase (LFE and Phase) Are they ok as is?
• crossover set to 80 on sub and on receiver (i think this was originally set to something like 110 but then I lowered it after reading some recommendations online)
• receiver set to LFE
• front speakers set to Large
• center channel set to Small (tried large and I like large better, more rich sound but it was originally set to small)
• volume on sub is set to less than 5 on the dial (out of 10). What am I supposed to set this to?
• auto calibration was done on the receiver at setup (Denon AVR 1907)

Is everything reasonably correct? Anything I should fix, change?

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/ggyeettye on 2023-12-30 05:40:47+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Accurate-Rock2789 on 2023-12-30 05:24:31+00:00.

Don't know if this is the right place for this kinda stuff but how do I get rid of this?? I tried reseting the tv it didn't work and all the videos I've found are for different brands.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/unicyclegamer on 2023-12-30 05:09:37+00:00.

I’ve been reading up on the difference between these two options, and I’m confused.

This page from Denon makes it seem like it has to do with playing frequencies NOT only in the LFE channel, but also from the L/R channels.

https://support.denon.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/14856/~/difference-between-lfe-and-lfe%2Bmain

LFE or Low Frequency Effect is the low frequency that’s output from any native Dolby, DTS or Auro 3D encoded track. It makes up about 8-10% of the track and is typically in the 20 Hz – 120 Hz range.

The other option you can choose is LFE+MAIN. This option includes the LFE from the Dolby, DTS or Auro 3D track and adds any low frequency that’s sent to the other channels under that channel’s set crossover point. It is recommended that you set your AVR to LFE+MAIN when playing back from any analog based source or when decoding a PCM based source for your subwoofer to output any of the low frequency from those sources. This ensures that your AVR will provide a full and balanced tone no matter what is being decoded or output.

But then they have a page for setting speakers to small/large and it seems like they’re using the setting to also mirror those low frequencies on both the sub through LFE, and the L/R, but only if the fronts are set to large.

https://support.denon.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/48/~/speakers---large-or-small-setting

As most surround applications use at least one subwoofer, you may want to set the Front, Center, Surround, and/or Surround Back speakers to "Small" regardless of their capabilities to take advantage of using the receiver's internal crossover. This will allow all frequencies under the crossover point (i.e. 80 Hz) to be generated from the receiver's SW pre-out to the subwoofer used in the application. This should create a more overall balanced audio experience.

Of course, for those front towers with internal subs or if you're only using a 2.1 (Left, Right, Sub) setup, you will most likely want to leave the Front speakers set to "Large" to pass the full frequency range (20 Hz - 20 kHz) to the Front speakers. At that point, you will want to change the Subwoofer Mode setting to "LFE + Main" as that will distribute low frequencies and LFE (Low Frequency Effect) to the Front channels and SW pre-out.

From what I understand, it goes like this:

L/R set to large and LFE - L/R get frequencies from their respective channels, but nothing from LFE. Sub gets LFE

L/R set to large and LFE+Main - Low frequencies go to both L/R and sub, regardless of channel

L/R set to small and LFE - L/R get frequencies down until their crossover points, sub gets only LFE channel

L/R set to small and LFE+Main - L/R get frequencies down to their crossover points, sub gets LFE along with low frequencies from L/R channels up until their crossover points.

Thoughts? Based on this it seems like LFE+Main is the better option if your speakers are set to small. If your speakers are set to large, then it seems like it depends on if your speakers and sub overlap well or not.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/ShiningRedDwarf on 2023-12-30 04:40:26+00:00.

I’ve had my LG C8 77” since 2019, and I’m having trouble deciding when I should upgrade again.

If you have a similar TV, will you be upgrading soon? (or maybe you have upgraded recently) If not, what are you holding out for?

I’d love to go from 77 to 83 inches. And I own a PS5 so it would be nice to have a HDMI 2.1 complaint set to get 120Hz and variable refresh.

But I just can’t currently justify spending $3500 for what I feel is a slightly moderate upgrade for how much it’ll cost.

Or am I overlooking something that new OLEDS have that would make it a worthwhile upgrade from my C8? One thing I’ve heard is that more recent OLEDs are brighter, but I don’t know if it’s a noticeable amount.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Designer_Brief_4949 on 2023-12-30 04:37:44+00:00.

My subwoofer is about 3 feet from left wall and 8” from front wall.

I can’t move it to the 1/3 position because of furniture.

Should I square it up so it is firing perpendicular to the front wall?

Should I try moving it to the corner?

Shouldn’t be angled 45 degrees from the corner and aimed at the listener?

Yes. YMMV. But I’m looking for a starting point or key things to try.

Thanks!

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Murkythespy on 2023-12-30 04:32:58+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/shadmere on 2023-12-30 04:28:38+00:00.

It's a Denon AVR S760H.

This error pops up when there's an issue, which I understand, but it also comes up when the device is working correctly but the video is just completely black for a few seconds.

"The connected device (HDMI 3) is in but displaying a black screen. Please check the device."

It's happened before and really messed with the tone of whatever was displaying a black screen. This most recent time was not really important, it was a Beavis and Butthead episode (Hellhole...right after the explosion, there's a black screen that lasts several tens of seconds).

This doesn't come up often but it's annoying when it does. It's happened before during older movies with overtures as well, while the video is completely black. Kinda ruins the mood.

Does anyone know a way to turn that off? I tried googling, but it's VERY difficult to search anything about receivers and "black screen error" without all the results being (understandably) about people getting a black screen when they don't want one.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/ahiddenmessi2 on 2023-12-30 04:20:11+00:00.

Hi, I have a Pioneer amplifier VSX-LX305 which I have been using it to play music through airplay and bluetooth over the past few months, including last week. Today I am trying to connect to the amplifier and found that both airplay and bluetooth functions are not working anymore. After I am connected via Airplay, the Airplay bar on the Amp shows 00:00/00:00 even I am playing musics. The Bluetooth and the Spotify features are bugged in the same way. I am using the newest firmware and confirmed the network is working properly. I think a factory reset could probably fix the issue (since i have reset it several times to fix the wifi issue), but it is just a pain to reconfigure the audio settings like DIRACC/MACC stuff (as far as I know its not possible to export the settings to a USB).

This Amplifier has been bugging me with different issues including the network issue.

Has anyone faced similar issues with your Pioneer Amplifier and knows a work around? Thanks a lot.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/CryptoCloutguy on 2023-12-30 04:16:47+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/AdministrationNew265 on 2023-12-30 04:11:19+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/bbq_menace on 2023-12-30 04:04:23+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/Chilechilechile on 2023-12-29 22:22:17+00:00.

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The original was posted on /r/hometheater by /u/OGHeisenberg on 2023-12-30 03:48:47+00:00.

I came across the Q990B at a really good open box price and have had it for a year now. It has worked really well for me as I had a small room and it did its job. Now, I recently moved to a new room and it is a little difficult to place the rear speakers so I have just been using the soundbar and the sub for now. If I plan to have this setup for a while, would it benefit me more to get a good 3.1 system instead of using the Q990B and its sub without the rear speakers?

Edit: To add, the reason I am asking is because I know the Q990B is a premium soundbar and I got it for $500. I really am looking for good sound for my movies, so I wanted to know if it’s worth it to get something else based on the price I got the soundbar. I appreciate any advice given.