Right to Repair

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Whether it be electronics, automobiles or medical equipment, the manufacturers should not be able to horde “oem” parts, render your stuff useless if you repair it with aftermarket parts, or hide schematics of their products.

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Need help fixing an oven (discuss.tchncs.de)

submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

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Hey, I've got a faulty oven here that won't heat up properly. The previous owner suspected a defective heating coil, but they are all functional. I tested it with an oven thermometer: if only bottom heat is on, the thermostat switches correctly and the oven heats up as it should. However, as soon as top heat is (also) on, it only heats up to about 80°C (144°F) below the target temperature.

The sensor is located directly behind the upper coil, so it doesn't seem too far-fetched that it switches sooner in this case, but 80 degrees too early? It has been working for the past 12 years... In YouTube videos, a faulty thermostat seems to cause the stove to heat non-stop.

Any idea on how I can fix this? I don't want to buy a spare part only for the problem to persist in the end.

Edit: This is about an IKEA FRAMTID OV9 featuring an EGO 55.17253.120.

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[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Sounds like a faulty thermostat at temperatures over 80C. Tun on bottom element only and uae heat gun directly on thermostat along with 3rd party thermometer to verify/rule out any top element issues.

Alternativly (if thermometer is cheap) just replace thermometer and hope for the best.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (2 children)

I might have phrased that a little ambiguously. The thermostat does not switch off at 80 degrees, but 80 degrees below target temperature (set 150, reached 70).

The replacement thermostat is 40€, which is more than I usually intend to spend on a repair, so it would be a shame to buy it and find that the fault is still there.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago (1 children)

That sounds like a zero drift/calibration error. If its got a computer in it u might be fucked. If u got a physical temperature knob u could always just rotate it on the dial by 80C

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 month ago

That sounds like a zero drift/calibration error.

That's what I thought too, but when I try it with bottom heat only, it switches just at the right temperature.

If its got a computer in it u might be fucked.

The oven only has a display for the clock and the roasting thermometer, the thermostat is independent (an EGO 55.17253.120).

If u got a physical temperature knob u could always just rotate it on the dial by 80C

I really want to avoid that.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (2 children)

If you're handy/industrious enough you can get a simple thermostat like an EGO 55.18062.050 which are fairly cheap and use that as a diagnostic tool.

If that solves your problem, you can swap out for the expensive part or leave in until it dies.

I've had thermostats fail open or closed. Open meaning the element never switches on or closed meaning the element never switches off.

I'm not an expert, just a hobbyist.

Is your thermostat probe in the proper place and the element isn't hanging off a bracket in the wrong place? Any improper placement of either may be giving an incorrect temp reading on the probe

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

I've been wondering about whether I could replace it with a cheaper thermostat with a similar rating. I'm gonna check the placement.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Placement looks okay to me, sure is dirty up there though. Could that be the issue?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Minor dirt, nothing to worry about in terms of temps but don't let your mom see it XD.

Is there only one thermostat?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

I was about to say yes, but there was one part left that I wasn't sure what it is, so I checked. The casing says ELTH 271P / T200, which from what I can gather is a thermal cut-off switch. A potential problem cause?

The active one out of two top heating coils measures 3.6A, roughly 800W at 230V. Seems alright and should not trigger it I guess.