Whether it be electronics, automobiles or medical equipment, the manufacturers should not be able to horde “oem” parts, render your stuff useless if you repair it with aftermarket parts, or hide schematics of their products.
Summary video by Marques Brownlee
Great channel covering and advocating right to repair, Lewis Rossman
Sounds like a faulty thermostat at temperatures over 80C. Tun on bottom element only and uae heat gun directly on thermostat along with 3rd party thermometer to verify/rule out any top element issues.
Alternativly (if thermometer is cheap) just replace thermometer and hope for the best.
I might have phrased that a little ambiguously. The thermostat does not switch off at 80 degrees, but 80 degrees below target temperature (set 150, reached 70).
The replacement thermostat is 40€, which is more than I usually intend to spend on a repair, so it would be a shame to buy it and find that the fault is still there.
That sounds like a zero drift/calibration error. If its got a computer in it u might be fucked. If u got a physical temperature knob u could always just rotate it on the dial by 80C
That sounds like a zero drift/calibration error.
That's what I thought too, but when I try it with bottom heat only, it switches just at the right temperature.
If its got a computer in it u might be fucked.
The oven only has a display for the clock and the roasting thermometer, the thermostat is independent (an EGO 55.17253.120).
If u got a physical temperature knob u could always just rotate it on the dial by 80C
I really want to avoid that.
If you're handy/industrious enough you can get a simple thermostat like an EGO 55.18062.050 which are fairly cheap and use that as a diagnostic tool.
If that solves your problem, you can swap out for the expensive part or leave in until it dies.
I've had thermostats fail open or closed. Open meaning the element never switches on or closed meaning the element never switches off.
I'm not an expert, just a hobbyist.
Is your thermostat probe in the proper place and the element isn't hanging off a bracket in the wrong place? Any improper placement of either may be giving an incorrect temp reading on the probe
I've been wondering about whether I could replace it with a cheaper thermostat with a similar rating. I'm gonna check the placement.
Placement looks okay to me, sure is dirty up there though. Could that be the issue?
Minor dirt, nothing to worry about in terms of temps but don't let your mom see it XD.
Is there only one thermostat?
I was about to say yes, but there was one part left that I wasn't sure what it is, so I checked. The casing says ELTH 271P / T200, which from what I can gather is a thermal cut-off switch. A potential problem cause?
The active one out of two top heating coils measures 3.6A, roughly 800W at 230V. Seems alright and should not trigger it I guess.
What kind of oven?
Test the thermostat at various temperatures. Room temp should be around 1080 ohms generally but it really depends on the model and thermostat
Could also be that the top element is dying or a bad control board but I would investigate thermostat first
Are you in the USA? If so keep in mind replacement oem parts can be sourced from junkyards/part pickers for a fraction of the cost of retail. Depends on how popular your model was and how long it’s been out of circulation though
It's an AEG model I think, sold under the IKEA FRAMTID series (OV9 model). Thermostat is an EGO 55.17253.120. Similar thermostats are barely cheaper than a new identical model where I live.
Is the oven actually faulty?
Some ovens only use the top element to 'grill' or brown dishes on top for example if you want to crisp up the cheese on top your mac n cheese dish and not as a 'baking' element. Temps don't matter as much because the dish would be up close to the element.
You say it has been working for 12 years, does that mean the TOP element has been hitting the right temps for the past 12 years?
It has two heating elements in the top, one of them is active when you select top + bottom heat. It is only 800W. The other one comes on when you select a grill function.
I got it for free on a local marketplace. The owner just said it worked alright in those years.
It would really help in cases like this to post exactly what device it is. This matters a lot for steps on how to best tackle the repair. Ovens are usually pretty similar, but the devil is in the details as usual, so we need to know as much as possible.
I mentioned it in other comments, but I'm going to edit the post to include it there.
Update: the thermostat was never faulty, my own oven behaves exactly the same.