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The Switch 2 BETTER have this feature... (lemmy.world)

submitted 2 days ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

29 comments fedilink hide all child comments

So I just got home from work, and I was playing Nintendo Switch at work. Well, the battery died.

So I get get home, plop that bad boy in the dock. Turn on the TV, turn on my controller, and.....TV has no signal, controller isn't connecting.

I walk over, and press and hold the power button while it's in the dock, and it's not doing anything. I pull it out of the dock, and press the power button. It's showing me a blank screen with a red battery symbol to indicate no battery.

Yeah, that's fine. The dock has external power. Use that. Except, no. It's not. I need to wait for it to charge for a few minutes. At least enough to turn it on. THEN I can run off of wall power.

I understand the BATTERY is dead. I get that. But why can't you just draw from AC if it's in the dock? I don't even care if it's charging right now. I just want to play. It can charge later when I go to sleep, and it's just in the dock all night.

I want the switch 2 to just be drop and play, even with a dead battery. Bad enough I need to worry about if my controller is charged!

Can we bring back the WiiU controller battery life? I'm pretty sure that thing is still charged since the 1970s. Which doesn't even make sense, but it still somehow goes to show how long that controllers battery lasted.

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[–] [email protected] -1 points 2 days ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (5 children)

It’s the same for every Li-Ion battery powered device and I don’t think Nintendo is going to R&D new battery tech anytime soon. You’d have to sacrifice too much of a capacity to prevent it so it’s easier to just try no to go below 20% of charge. Then, if you really need to go below you can limit it to cases where you can’t just pause and resume later.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (2 children)

You’d have to sacrifice too much of a capacity to prevent it so it’s easier to just try no to go below 20% of charge.

But that's the thing, you are sacrificing the capacity its just that you are being asked to make that decision manually each and every time. They know how the drain/recharge cycles effect the battery so they could set the min/max cutoffs to optimum values.

For SSDs we expect them to over provision the storage and consider the increased longevity a measurable benefit. I don't see why batteries should be any different.

[–] [email protected] 0 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Ideally, yes but I don’t think people want that. It’s really hard to deplete your battery as much as OP did. The issue here is that at low charge you get inaccurate measurements so you’d have to provision a lot of battery capacity and people wouldn’t buy such devices when the issue being fixed is so minor.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago

For "family" devices its a feature that many parents would be happy to use.

I enable the battery health options on my kid's tablets, I'm happy to sacrifice a little bit of operating time in year one if it means I still have "near new" operating time in year two and on.

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