3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
The joys of parts with not friendly printing geometry. There's another cylindrical recess running at 90 degrees to the one that's visible in this photo.
Apologies for the very obvious layer lines. Harsh direct overhead lighting makes them a lot more obvious. The prints are much better in person, I promise.
Edit: Finished part showing the second cylindrical recess. They're both dimensionally important, which is why the parts weren't printed flat.
What is the part for? What does it do?
It's the center section of a rebar clamp for a plant support structure in my garden. I'm hoping to get a photo of it installed today.
I was wondering if it was some sort of alignment/clamp for something like pipes or rods, or maybe some sort of bushing/bearing holders (think linear rods). Your tuning looks great btw, look pretty nice even in the worst case lighting conditions, adhesion not an issue doing this way? My dad asked me to print some stuff he designed for his beekeeping tools, has a bearing surface that's awkward to print accurately, I'm probably going to revisit that with this as inspiration, other than the helper ears I see on the build plate anything else you did?
To ask questions, for the application does dimensional accuracy actually matter? AFAIK rebar isn't exactly the tightest wrt tolerances (I know flat products, not long products, but knowing what hotroll coils look like I'm assuming it's similar), could probably have gotten away with a different orientation and could probably have avoided supports (I find arches print nicely). Having said that though, thinking strength might be another reason to print the way you did, face down and you have shear & torsion in between layers, thinking that's still a concern if you printed it standing, but yeah, just thoughts.
Edit: also spy kapton tape, did you find the bubble insulation made much of a difference? I'm putting what's basically heat barrier fabric on the interior as a first try, I grabbed some rock wool and bubble insulation but it's thick enough that I'm mildly concerned with it interfering with the gantry, having everything off for some refurb and wow I forgot just how close everything is, they really didn't waste space eh?
All has been revealed.
Thanks! I will make a "same print, terrible lighting vs good lighting" post in the next day or two. No, adhesion wasn't an issue. I run klipper with z calibration, so my first layers are very consistent.
Most of what I print is self designed. I do my best to make sure the designs are (reasonably) easy to print. For overhangs, printing a part at 45 degrees is basically a cheat code, but it comes with the tradeoff of more iffy bed adhesion.
I printed these with a skirt and some tree supports to improve stability. Beyond that, I didn't do anything special and don't put anything on my bed.
These are ASA parts with 0.3mm high layers. If you haven't printed ASA before, it's a bit more melty than PLA. You're right that rebar isn't super dimensionally consistent, but a 14mm radius cylinder wouldn't have printed very well flat.
I don't think layer lines matter a ton in this particular print. Most of the stress is going to be torque caused by one bar trying to rotate relative to the other bar.
A few answers here.
First, swapping to ACM panels bumped my chamber temps. If you dig through my post history you can find a temp graph comparing before/after. Second, adding a radiant barrier did help, but was less significant than the ACM panels. I do need to do the back panel and want to make my fridge door double pane using one of the stock acrylic sides. Third, I have magnetic panel clips that I modified to give me a bit more space to accommodate the radiant insulation. You would never be able to fit this stuff in with the stock panel attachments.