morbidcactus

joined 2 years ago
[–] morbidcactus 1 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago) (1 children)

Grid infill is crossing, get a decent blob or buildup and you could have nozzle collision, I personally like gyroid but it is slower.

Had a similar failure on the mk3s, what does the belt tension test return? Stealth mode may help or be the cause, anecdotally I've seen mention of motor temps, the old rambo board running stock firmware they got toasty when printing in the enclosure in the summer, stealth helped me limp it along until I did a board swap and changed to klipper. I don't know if this is an issue with the mk4 as that's not using the older Rambo based boards, but something to consider as well, had it happen even after I did the first abs rebuild.

Edit: too tight can also cause issues, not necessarily skipping but having it trigger the virtual endstop, prusa has an article for troubleshooting layer shifting. Also probably with checking both axis to ensure they're smooth and consistent across travel, seen an over tight x carriage back cause too much resistance and have false triggers.

[–] morbidcactus 2 points 2 hours ago

I've had fruit flies before that must have come in on some produce, have to be on it to clear them, leave out any fruit/veg scraps and they come out (out being tossed in the trash/green bin too, anything open air). Drop of dish soap, water and vinegar in a high walled glass or jar is the way to do it, I used balsamic but malt or wine vinegar works too, just leave that out and it'll do its job.

My current place we jokingly call the spider house, have a bunch of house spiders around (cats love them) and a few orb-weavers, garden and wolf spiders outside, pretty much anything native isn't a threat to humans or cats, they do a great job of taking out any pests, rarely see flies inside these days. Spiders and centipedes I'll leave alone, they're beneficial to have around.

[–] morbidcactus 6 points 1 day ago

I'll third it, I used Solidworks before, freecad was fairly easy to adapt to before the 1.0 release, workflow is even nicer now, trying to convince my dad to move to freecad over paying for a sw subscription now that he's retired.

[–] morbidcactus 2 points 1 day ago

I've seen mention that stuff like the odbc connection manager have parts dating back to 3.1

[–] morbidcactus 4 points 2 days ago

Yeah, I've got comments mirroring that, Harper should be to the Tories what Bob Rae is to the ONDP. Probably sticks out to me because I was just old enough to start voting during those years, that wasn't that long ago though, like I know memories are short in politics but I'd not be running with a Harper cabinet minister if I were them.

[–] morbidcactus 1 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago)

I'm not sure how bambu studio does it (use prusa/superslicer) but chiming in because I was trying to figure this out last year doing a large ish batch of keychains for a friend and was fighting a bit with it, probably is a way of doing it all in freecad but the image was my biggest issue.

I ended up doing things in blender to subtract the image and the slicer itself, did a text object, positioned it where I wanted, merged the objects and marked the text as a negative volume (think that's the term, might be subtract) so it was subtracted when I sliced it, might help in your case?

[–] morbidcactus 2 points 4 days ago

More or less same, or random bands with the same name, I mostly use bandcamp for discovery these days, for now it's still great being able to follow small labels, bands and user tags.

[–] morbidcactus 4 points 5 days ago

Also, you can vote at your returning office pretty much up to election day (check your local hours), you don't need to wait for advance polls to open, I've voted this way for the last bunch of elections, it's always quick in and out.

[–] morbidcactus 2 points 5 days ago

I kinda want it to be both hard and costly to invoke, needs to be an absolute last case, like have it trigger an election so that it has to be voted on by the next government, or have it trigger a referendum that requires a super majority of eligible voters to pass (nonvoters count as no), and if it does succeed it terminates when parliament dissolves, that's kinda inline though with the 5 year renewal periods.

[–] morbidcactus 2 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) (1 children)

I was wondering if it was some sort of alignment/clamp for something like pipes or rods, or maybe some sort of bushing/bearing holders (think linear rods). Your tuning looks great btw, look pretty nice even in the worst case lighting conditions, adhesion not an issue doing this way? My dad asked me to print some stuff he designed for his beekeeping tools, has a bearing surface that's awkward to print accurately, I'm probably going to revisit that with this as inspiration, other than the helper ears I see on the build plate anything else you did?

To ask questions, for the application does dimensional accuracy actually matter? AFAIK rebar isn't exactly the tightest wrt tolerances (I know flat products, not long products, but knowing what hotroll coils look like I'm assuming it's similar), could probably have gotten away with a different orientation and could probably have avoided supports (I find arches print nicely). Having said that though, thinking strength might be another reason to print the way you did, face down and you have shear & torsion in between layers, thinking that's still a concern if you printed it standing, but yeah, just thoughts.

Edit: also spy kapton tape, did you find the bubble insulation made much of a difference? I'm putting what's basically heat barrier fabric on the interior as a first try, I grabbed some rock wool and bubble insulation but it's thick enough that I'm mildly concerned with it interfering with the gantry, having everything off for some refurb and wow I forgot just how close everything is, they really didn't waste space eh?

[–] morbidcactus 1 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Softening and that, maybe? But it really depends on the filament brand too, as far as I'm aware, acetone doesn't readily dissolve in acetone which is what's meant by not doing much

Petg is pretty resistant, why PETs used for bottles.

Personal experience cleaning up clogged nozzles by immersing them, yeah acetone barely touched the petg

 

Experts say that Hudson's Bay had been in decline long before then, some tracing its issues back to its 2008 acquisition by the American investment firm NRDC Equity Partners, and saying that the company's new ownership prioritized its real estate over a cohesive retail strategy.

Emphasis mine.

 

I was joking about a Trudeau/Brazeau charity match against Trump/Musk the other day.

 

Figured I'd contribute with resources I've used and found really solid, not everything is made in Canada but all are Canadian businesses with fantastic customer service.

Filament

  • Matter3D Langford BC based manufacturer, they make some solid quality filament and promote themselves as engineering grade material. Their abs has low odor, petg prints really well, haven't tried their nylon yet but I have a few spools to work with. Their prices are extremely reasonable and they have regular sales, my go to supplier

Parts, kits, etc.

  • Spool3D Calgary AB based store, Canada wide through canpost for free over $140. I live in Ontario, but most of my purchases are from them, solid selection of material, parts and accessories. My voron was sourced with parts 90% from here, they also have solid filament, sell garolite sheets too for a build surface (trying to move away from using builtak, they're a solid product but I won't be buying American for the foreseeable future)
  • 3d lab tech another in Calgary, the other 10% of my voron came from here. Lots of kits and high quality parts, highly recommend, extremely responsive too and they constantly have new, interesting stuff.
  • Sparta 3D Brampton Ontario based, again, lots of kits and high quality parts, have quality filter carbon as well if you're looking for a good Canadian supplier of acid-free material. They have filament as well, haven't had an opportunity to use it yet however.
  • Makerparts they're moving so unfortunately site looks to be closed for now, BC based, they're all sorts of maker related stuff, not just printing. I bought a bear mod kit for my prusa from them, again, solid product and great to work with.
 

The intent, Carney said during an interview on Rosemary Barton Live, is to invest in Canada's economy "at a time when we absolutely have to build as a country."

The taxpayer dollars would "catalyze many multiples of private dollars" to build homes, energy infrastructure, AI systems and trade corridors — "all of which are fundamentally necessary if we are going to grow this economy, irrespective of how President Trump is feeling on one day or another," Carney said.

Carney also said a federal government led by him would balance its operational spending — such as government-run programs, federal transfers to provinces and territories and debt service charges — over the course of the next three years.

 

Sounds like it's focused on internal trade and global investment, I know 30 days isn't a long time, but maybe we can be better prepared, reducing our reliance on the yanks certainly seems to have public support so there's that.

 

Because mandatory minimums work to deter crime and totally haven't been struck down in the past or anything right?

20mg - 15 years, 40mg is life and Pierre's mentioned using the notwithstanding clause to pass stuff like this in the past.

 

Paper mentioned in article can be found here.

Annealing prints has been something I've wanting to do more of, probably with proper temperature control as my experience has has more waste than I'd like, mainly warping.

Paper claims some pretty dramatic improvements to interlayer strength, they're running filament through a bath before entering the extruder, not sure how accessible the entire thing would be in a hobbyist environment (using chloroform and specialised microwave equipment). Makes me wonder however if carbon fibre filaments would be able to be processed similarly, how well it'd perform with stuff like abs or nylon and if you could achieve that with consumer microwaves.

 

Bandcamp Metallum

New album out, this album is stupidly catchy. It's a mix of medieval folk and black metal, it's cheesy and I've been loving it.

 

Bandcamp for the album, Metallum for the band I'm not usually the biggest modern tech death person, but there was just something about this album that did it for me. Entire album is just under 28 minutes, definitely recommend a listen.

 

Planning on finishing an ercf this year and going can for that so figured good opportunity to swap the hotend over, saved a substantial amount of wiring even compared to the hotend PCB I had, saved the wiring harness just to compare went for a usb can device over running can from the octopus pro, did want to swap the pro over to can as well but ended up keeping it the same instead of messing with reflashing firmware. Hotend has a little 3015 fan and a heatsink on the arm chip so cooling should be fine, looked up the datasheet and it's got a tjmax of like 120c and rated for ambient -40-80c so don't think I need to worry about it, if it's an issue I'll run a fresh air feed to it, will see how it likes abs in the summer shortly.

All in all, super easy swap over, definitely cleaned up my rats nest (though I still should cut the stepper wires to length, they hide in the imitation panduit I printed, it's neat enough to be serviceable and not be a hazard), used katapult (formerly canboot) and then flashed klipper onto the board, only minor issue is it uses these tiny jst connectors, like really small, btt ebb sb2209 and btt u2c usb can device, was a good resource to follow for any of the network interface configs that I needed to do and gave some good details on diagnostics.

 

Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?

Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.

I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!

If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.

Rough Sanded Front of keychain with image of a Bernese Mountain DogBack of keychain with some details obscured

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