There should be some basic protection for the element in case there is no water, because there's a possibility that there would be no water , and there's also a possibility that your dishwasher would catch fire if the element is turned on with no water.
So when you're looking at the heater element, check that there isn't a thermal fuse nearby and check that it hasn't blown.
Possibly your new element will have it incorporated but maybe not.
Anything useful is still "unsafe."
So you take care with the bits that have to deal with C, just like you have to with C code itself, and then all the rest of your code is still safe by default. Still a net improvement, yes?
If you occasionally boot to windows, it's known to leave NICs in an unusable state if you just hibernate/quick power off. You need to boot back to windows and so a "proper" shutdown for it to come good.
Consider yourself corrected then. I've skimmed your comment history. Your go-to insult is "bootlicker" or alternatively, a simple clown emoji. In your comments you seem to provide very little context as to why you think that, it's just, "I deem you to be a BOOTLICKER! Next!"
So maybe a little guidance for you:
The very, very, first thing you do when dealing with perceived propaganda - be it on mainstream media, online, or wherever - is to remove all the emotion and insults and see what's left. You know what I see when I parse your comments like that? Very little.
Thus I conclude you have nothing of importance to say, and you become background noise that gets tuned out.
Actually your comments do have some small value. I check your bootlicker-comment-score and if it's greater than 5, I know the community you posted in isn't worth my time.
Six levels deep in a teams group file storage and open a file to view? Clicking the big obvious "close" button on the top right of the opened document now takes you back to the top level. Enjoy digging back in again!
Oh, you really just want to close that document and remain in the folder you were just in? Well that's easy. Just ignore that big tempting close button and click the tiny "<" button on the left, no problem. You'll probably remember that after reflexively clicking that close button at least once, so enjoy all that!
It was a Sharp "Memory LCD".
https://sharpdevices.com/memory-lcd/
Basically "visible memory storage".
You treat it as addressable memory and write into it, and it will hold that state using about 15 microwatts to do so.
You can still buy the display modules , there's a few boards that let you easily drive them with arduinos and etc.
"Akshually", so do you. You had a chance to discuss and inform, and instead you went straight to "bootlicker".
Do you think they're going to take any notice of whatever you say from here on?
Samsung front loader washing machine here.
It is generally musical while selecting program options. It sings a little song when finished, which is only after it unlocks the door. The little song only plays once. The little song can be changed to other tunes by subtle and undocumented button presses.
After about 10 minutes it plays a few notes while turning itself off that are easily recognisable as the notes it plays when it turns itself off, so if you miss the first little song, once you hear that you know it's definitely finished. After that it is done. No more door locking shenanigans or tumbling or clothes.
Generally I use the "sportswear" cycle which is about 1 hour, my clothes are generally not that dirty. Sometimes I treat towels / linen to a hot cotton cycle which is 2.5 hours and a 90 degree (Celsius) wash.
Had it for 10 years now, no mechanical or electrical issues. I always leave the door ajar when finished and once every few months I do a cleaning cycle.
I also have a Fisher and Paykel dryer. I have owned it for 8 years, in which time it has needed a replacement drive belt as it gets used heavily. The bushes on the drum need replacing soon, but I just turned it upside down so it will last for a while longer
Regarding your door issues, well that's because idiots try and open the door during a load, and then when it's locked, they turn it off and still try and open the door. They subsequently complain about the water going everywhere. Don't forget that manufacturers have to deal with the lowest common denominator end user.
Possibly your motor is having an insulation breakdown when 220v is applied. Looks fine when testing with an ordinary multimeter and it's low supply voltage.
So everything looks fine until it powers up and then you get a failure of the insulation on your motor windings, either failing to ground/frame or across windings in the motor. This flashover would likely fry whatever control components are in your main board, and it's possible that your safety capacitor has a set of polyfuses in it that temporarily go high resistance when excess load is applied.
To check for an insulation breakdown you'd really need a megger which can apply 250/500v to the motor windings to check the leakage to ground/between windings.
You don't need an entire web server in your daemon, you just need the socket.
Include a websocket listener in the daemon. Keep a ringbuffer of the last X data points, whatever nicely fills your client graph, for example. Wait for clients to connect, dump in the ringbuffer, then update clients as data comes in.
The webserver can serve up the page with the client code that links to the websocket. After that it's strictly a discussion between the end client and the daemon over websockets.
What was Wenger thinking, sending Walcott on that early?
Hi all,
In an effort to liven up this community, I'll post this project I'm working on.
I'm building a solar hot water controller for my house. The collector is on the roof of a three-storey building, it is linked to a storage tank on the ground floor. A circulating pump passes water from the tank to the collectors and back again when a temperature sensor on the outlet of the collector registers a warm enough temperature.
The current controller does not understand that there is 15 metres of copper piping to pump water through and cycles the circulating pump in short bursts, resulting in the hot water at the collector cooling considerably by the time it reaches the tank (even though the pipes are insulated). The goal of my project is to read the sensor and drive the pump in a way to minimise these heat losses. Basically instead of trying to maintain a consistent collector output temp with slow constant pulsed operation of the pump, I'll first try pumping the entire volume of moderately hot water from the top half of the collector in one go back to the tank and then waiting until the temperature rises again.
I am using an Adafruit PyPortal Titano as the controller, running circuitpython. For I/O I am using a generic ebay PCF8591 board, which provides 4 analog input and a single analog output over an I2C bus. This is inserted into a motherboard that provides pullup resistors for the analog inputs and an optocoupled zero crossing SCR driver + SCR to drive the (thankfully low power) circulating pump. Board design is my own, design is rather critical as mains supply in my country is 240V.
The original sensors are simple NTC thermistors, one at the bottom of the tank, and one at the top of the collector. I have also added 4 other Dallas 1-wire sensors to measure temperatures at the top of tank, ambient, tank inlet and collector pump inlet which is 1/3rd of the way up the tank. I have a duplicate of the onewire sensors already on the hot water tank using a different adafruit board and circuitpython. Their readings are currently uploaded to my own IOT server and I can plot the current system's performance, and I intend to do the same thing with this board.
The current performance is fairly dismal, a very small bump of perhaps 0.5 - 1 deg C in the normally 55 degree C tank temperature around 12pm to 1pm, and this is in Australia in hot spring weather of 28-32 degrees C.(There's some inaccuracy of the tank temperatures, the sensors aren't really bonded to the tank in any meaningful way, so tank temp is probably a little warmer than this. But I'm looking for relative temperature increases anyway)
Right now , the hardware is all together and functional, and is driving a 13W LED downlight as a test, and I can read the onewire temp sensors, read an analog voltage on the PCF8591 board (which will go to the NTC sensors), and I'm pulsing the pump output proportionally from 0-100 percent drive on a 30 second duty cycle, so that a pump drive function can simply say "run the pump at 70 percent" and you'll get 21 seconds on, 9 seconds off. Duty cycle time is adjustable, so I might lower it a bit to 15 or 10 seconds.
The next step is to try it on the circulating pump (which is quite an inductive load, even if it is only 20 watts), and start working on an algorithm that reads the sensors and maximises water temperature back to the tank. There are a few safety features that I'll put in there, such as a "fault mode" to drive the pump at a fixed rate if there is a sensor failure, and a "night cool" mode if the hot water tank is severely over temperature to circulate hot water to the collector at night to cool it. There are the usual overtemp/overpressure relief valves in the system already.
All this is going in a case with a clear hinged cover on the front so I can open it and poke the Titano's touchscreen to do some things.
Right now I am away from home from work, so my replies might be a bit sporadic, but I'll try to get back to any questions soon-ish.
A few photos for your viewing pleasure:
The I/O and mainboard plus a 5V power supply mounted up:
The front of the panel, showing the Pyportal:
Thingsboard display showing readings from the current system:
Mainboard PCB design and construction via EasyEDA:
Awesome! You are lucky, some of those devices don't have a reset - they are just like a fuse and once they are blown they need replacing.
Good to hear it's all working again, and at least now you know for next time!