waspentalive

joined 2 years ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 5 days ago

Just as an aside, my Caonon EOS R50 seems to have something about WiFi in the setup - will that let me download pictures without the USB-C connection? (ie when I am home?)

[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 days ago

Photo Sorting : Having your photos arranged by some criteria, I personally would like them sorted by the date and time they were taken. Ideally, folders for each year, containing folders for each month of that year, month folders have day folders in them, day folders will have media folders (If your media won't hold a full day's worth of shots). My new R50's media hold over 3000 shots so I don't think I will fill it up in one day.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 6 days ago (1 children)

I am trying shotwell right now - I would like to get my photos sorted by date captured into another folder. They are kind of random in one folder ("Transfer") and there is an empty folder for something to build a directory structure in: A folder for each year, inside those a folder for each month, inside folders for each day, inside that are pictures. Shotwell seems to have them separated out into "events" but can it copy the existing pictures into the new folder, but sorted?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

I generally do the same, except I only nuke the ones that were technically bad, many of my pictures are taken from a moving car with little warning so I don't always get my subject anywhere near in frame - those go otherwise I want to really check the rest. They go in a folder that is named by the date the pictures were taken (20250309 for today's) Then if I need to do things I try Gimp first. I just recently got rapid photo down loader too. Can it create/maintain folders for year/mo/day..?

 

Of course Darktable is not only a photo sorter, but also does a lot of photo touch up 'darkroom' work. Debian system with KDE desktop. i5 with some bargain basement NVIDIA gpu (No, really it does not even have it's own fan).

Which of the 3 do y'all like the best?

Edit - Update - More details:

I am dedicating a laptop to be my "portable darkroom"- My desktop machine is only an i5, this laptop is a nice Asus Vivobook with an i7 in it. I do have Rapid Photo Down Loader (which works well with my camera connected via USB C) Each photo drive or session goes in to a folder named by date 20250309 for today for example. These go inside a year folder. Inside the day folder I put the DCIM folder from the camera. I sort and grade on the computer. I have now tried Darkroom, and it seems to just pile every picture I have into one continuous unsorted stream of pictured with no grouping. I hope the other two do better in that regard.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago

There is also Workspace Behavior=>Screen Locking where one may set automatic screen lock, ( I uncheck both boxes )

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Allow me to suggest a different strategy: Let...the...pikachou...win

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

From the above for those who find it TTDU, This block of addresses is set aside for internally routed nodes inside ISPs.

( *TTDU Too technical didn't understand )

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago (3 children)

Thanks! That does look useful! Why does Tailscale use the 100.x.y.z range of IP addresses? Aren't those also normal routable addresses?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago (5 children)

Perhaps I will need to print from time to time, and I may want to access my desktop machine.

If I can use 2FA, especially a time-based one-time password That will be good. I have authy on my phone.

The traveling machine is going to be a Linux machine which will have a strong login password.

So the server as a talescale router set up to only accept a routing connection from my traveling laptop with 2fa. My server's other services only accepting connections from my network. Do I have the basic concepts correct?

 

Would it be unwise to make my file server (SSH only) machine (also runs a Minecraft server, And From time to time runs RSTS/E under simh) a tailscale router node to allow my traveling notebood access to the network when I am away?

9
submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

Ok, this may seem a silly question, and I suppose it is a matter of choice. I can put my camera in the case I bought for it with the lens facing down, out (to the right so the lens is against the outside wall of the case, in (to the left toward the other case compartment that holds a lens) or up toward the opening. What is safest? (detail if you need it this is a Canon EOS R50 in a Lowepro "Nova" case)

Another question - When I am to store my camera for a while should I remove the lens and afix covers to the body and the lens or may I just leave it on? Probably 2 weeks to a month between normal uses.

 

Some of the photos I take, to get the subject large enough in the frame I have to use electronic zoom. I don't have money for a nice zoom lens. I tried using an adapter for one of Dad's zoom lenses but it sometimes gives me issues. So I use a 4x zoom - which basically cuts off 3/4 of my sensor then expands the picture to full size (I guess by some sort of averaging math to create the discarded pixels)

Is there anything I can do in post to get some of that resolution back - even if it made up. I am a Linux user, so a workflow in GIMP would be great, or any other Free/Libre software you might suggest?

 

(Solved) This will be used in CLI mode to do some tiny programming and text file note-taking. Having WiFi would be nice. The price has got to be CHEAP. ARM is ok.

OP decided to kill windows on the Timberborn machine and go with Debian.

 

root@cube:~# df -h / Filesystem Size Used Avail Use% Mounted on /dev/sda2 116G 41G 70G 37% /

Is it time to clean up?

3
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
 

I have developed an 'esoteric' programming language - Floating Point Tiny !

You may have seen "Tiny" in Haiku Depot. Floating Point Tiny is a big brother to Tiny - replacing integer line numbers with double sized floating point line numbers, and doing math and comparisons in a double width floating point stack.

Floating Point Tiny is an RPN based language. You can find the C source and the manual at:

https://github.com/pentalive/FPTiny

To the kind person who put Tiny in the Depot for me - do you want to do it again?

 

Updates - Formatting, one more small information.

I have been hunting documentation and trying things in my .emacs file for 2 days now..

The type of message that appears at the bottom of the screen, one example is "Save the file ? (y,n,! ...." On my system it is dark blue on black. Also "Modified buffers exist..." dark blue on black - hard to read. What face is that?

Here is what I have tried so far:

(custom-set-faces
  '(mode-line ((t (:foreground "white" :background "blue" :weight bold))))
  '(warning ((t (:foreground "yellow" :weight bold))))
  '(error ((t (:foreground "yellow" :weight bold))))
  '(success ((t (:foreground "yellow" :weight bold))))
  '(default ((t (:foreground "white" :background "black"))))
  '(minibuffer-prompt ((t (:foreground "yellow" :weight bold))))
  '(shadow ((t (:foreground "yellow"))))
  '(completions-common-part ((t (:foreground "yellow"))))
  '(completions-first-difference ((t (:foreground "yellow" :weight bold))))
  '(default ((t (:foreground "white" :background "black"))))
 )

describe-face for another prompt with the same coloring says it is the default face. So I tried changing that from the M-x prompt but that turned my screen white on yellow.

The mode-line line works - my active mode line is white on blue.

Does it matter that I am running emacs in a tty instead of the GUI version?

 

[Solved Empirically] I have loaded this up on my machine and I seem to be getting good frame rates, but I am working under Fluxbox, a really light weight window manager. I would like to run KDE instead. It's a little heavier. Will that make a difference to Minecraft? Will minecraft work better if I am running with a server on another machine? (logic would say that with some portion of the work happening on that other machine the client should not need as much processing power)

Or is it just useless to worry about all this?

--Update Ok, I have re-installed the machine on KDE and tried it both against a server and a local game and both seem to run just fine, just an occasional double place but not a big deal.

 

I have a machine who's mission is to run FreeDOS. It will do this most of the time, but sometimes it would be nice to be able to get it connected to a modern network to transfer DOS files out to my 'production machine' If DOS is like Windows the system clock ticks local time, but usually Linux likes UTC time - so this may be an issue that needs resolving too.

UPDATE - For now I have Debian in multi-user mode. I have set Grub to remember what I chose last so reboots from FreeDOS are hands free after ctrl-alt-del (Just like if FreeDOS were the only OS here) I have set the clock in Debian to run on the local timezone too, Thanks over_clox. Please continue to recommend your favorite distro.

 

[Solved] Put in the first disk, do a DIR and see what is there. Remove it and put in a second disk and do a DIR and see the same contents. Reboot, and see different contents for the same 2nd diskette. USB floppy 3.5" 1.44, Connected directly to a USB port on the computer. Running MSDOS 6.22.

Solved by switching to FreeDOS. Be aware of the minor issue with FreeDOS format.exe = the /u flag is causing errors in the FD13 version. But one can do without it.

 

I was attempting to capture the full moon tonight using my Canon EOS R50 mounted on a tripod. I had a telephoto lens attached to the camera via a Canon adapter, as this lens was originally designed for my father's Canon Digital Rebel and had an incompatible mount for the R50.

While zoomed in on the moon to fill the frame, I observed an unexpected behavior: the camera appeared to automatically zoom the image back out. I was under the impression that the camera itself lacked the capability to adjust the zoom setting, but the viewfinder clearly indicated a change in magnification

Update: In case it is important, the lens has image stabilization built in, but I have it turned off as it lets me set focus and recompose better.

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