radau

joined 2 years ago
[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 day ago

I wouldn't use it for security, use VMs if you need isolation.

I used Distrobox for various dev projects on Fedora Atomic and it worked great for that. I did a separate homedir mainly just to avoid dumping a bunch of crap into my real home but definitely have the expectation that anything you install has full access to the system.

I run FreeCAD via Distrobox as well since the flatpak performance was pretty bad and it's wayyyy faster which is nice and preferable to rpm-ostree in my instance.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 4 days ago

This looks great, I have EA via Bottles currently for BF3/4 would love to switch to this. Totally get why it doesn't support BF3, BF3 using a browser launcher for the PC version was insanely stupid

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

I run this one on my T480 and it was honestly refreshing. I don't believe the Microsoft store is even enabled by default which was a really nice change of pace from all the crap it's usually got. Just enable what you want... how it should be but instead, "muh CoPilot".

[–] [email protected] 26 points 1 week ago (1 children)

So many people don't even question it. Talk loud and confidently enough and that's the bar for most unfortunately.

TikTok, Instagram and similar are great examples of this, initially you think wow cool I'm seeing all of these new things and getting so much info. Then you see someone come up on a topic you know something about and the facade breaks when all they do is spew misinformation that attracts a crowd (usually via fear).

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Soulseek via slskd on my NAS to fill in the missings from Lidarr works really well. Gluetun with a VPN and sharing everything as it grows

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Photographing fairly flat angle with your phone and then scaling the imported image using a dimension such as the diameter of a screw hole or something will get you VERY close as well for more prohibitive items!

3D Scanner is really worth while if you do a lot but that's a bit of a barrier to entry for most people currently but hopefully follows the trend of printers getting better and more affordable.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I do this on my Xtool M1 with both the blade and laser cutter, both seem to work fantastic though the laser cutter leaves a little burnt residue.

Super easy to come up with the trace, just throw your part on a flatbed scanner, scan and trace it out in FreeCAD and send the SVG out for it to cut.

BBK actually doesn't make a 61mm gasket (I believe for 3502 part number), it still has 58mm holes so you're really better off just going custom when it's $20 for the wrong gasket lol that you have to hack up anyways.

I love the reduced time to get things with this approach. I just keep enough of different types of FelPro gasket paper on hand and have them cut as needed, way faster than Amazon!

My friend has been running a Nylon IAC spacer ln his turbo 351W foxbody with two laser cut gaskets to go with it for over a year with hard racing in high temps and all of it has held up great.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

May not directly help you but might work for someone! Going to try to remember this from memory it's been a couple months since I've had to do it. Both of my printers are custom so this is what I do each time I have a new filament/type. It sounds like a lot but it's maybe an hour of mostly wait time and I don't do it again for the same type of spool unless I have an issue.

This is all based on running Klipper firmware and PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer and their built in tools for calibrating so YMMV:

  1. Create a new Filament (and new Print Settings dependent on the type of plastic, if necessary) in PrusaSlicer. For example maybe I am creating a new Print Setting for "ABS" if it's my first time printing that type of plastic by cloning PLA, then add a new filament for the coloration. For example I might name it "Polylite ASA - Black" that way I can differentiate from the type of plastic, the manufacturer, AND the color. I typically will base the Type of an existing (e.x. PLA) and then tweak as needed (usually adjusting speed values).

  2. Temperature tower, look for both quality AND strength, you can make a plastic visually print great and have almost zero adhesion.

  3. Adjust values on Ellis3DP's Pressure advanced tool to match the desired printers parameters and then upload and run the test. I like this one a LOT more than Klippers

  4. Set the pressure advance value for the new filament in PrusaSlicer.

Visually on the side of PrusaSlicer in advanced mode you would see:

  • Print Settings: printer1 ASA (prefixing or suffixing is necessary if you have multiple printers)

  • Filament: Polylite ASA - Black - printer1 (also necessary for multiple printers as you may have different settings between different printers)

  • Printer: printer1

Generally speaking I only really need to get the temperature and pressure advance right and it's dead reliable and I can print at speed. I have tuned PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA, Nylon, CF Nylon and Polycarbonate following these steps and it's pretty set and forget.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Cyberpunk runs +-5 frames from windows for me on a 3070, I don't mod it though so can't speak to that

[–] [email protected] 5 points 1 week ago

So many of these companies have turned into shells of what they once were it's really sad. NZXT used to be phenomenal, I had a side window crack on a case back around 2010 and they sent a whole damn case for free.

[–] [email protected] 8 points 1 week ago

So much for paying for it!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Nice I haven't needed to relicense my ACF since I have a lifetime one but I am awaiting the eventual rug pull like DeliciousBrains did after WPEngine bought and enshittified them. Really feels like they just tried to secure as many "core" plugins for themselves which I'm really wary about.

 

Is there a viable method or company to recycle failed prints or prototypes? I've been keeping all of my PETG stuff in a box, still a way to go before it's full but was curious if anyone had any experience here whether it be something diy or shipping them to a company.

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