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Progress on chasing chamber temps (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 week ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

5 comments fedilink hide all child comments

I recently installed LDO's version of the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door on my Voron 2.4 350.

My 2.4 is stock in terms of heating other than having the filter, ACM panels, and 2x bed fans.

Takeaways?

If you want to make graphs, make sure you have comparable conditions. I was printing during both graphs and the prints had different aspect ratios (before was taller than wide, after was wider than tall). This probably explains why before appears to have heated faster
The better sealing door, with thicker acrylic did help chamber temps, but only by 3 degrees C
It takes a very long time to heat soak a 350mm^3 chamber, even with 4x bed fans
I wish I had a graph before I swapped the ACM panels on, but I don't and the panels are gone :(

I will be lining my panels with radiant insulation in the next week or three and will report back what, if any, changes that makes.

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[–] morbidcactus 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Is your shop/garage/space heated? That's really impressive if not, I'm probably going to look at something like the clicky-clack door if that's the case, I've been ducttaping the gap instead of figuring out a proper seal. The tiny space heater I have in the garage just can't cut it with it actually being cold this week, so doubt I'd be able to hit those chamber temps in the winter. That soak time tracks with mine as well.

How are you planning on mounting the radiant insulation? Like between the frame and panels? Very much considering going that route on both printers, be interested seeing how well that performs, be interesting if anyone did something with Vacuum insulated panels, maybe sandwiched between ACM or something to protect them, they're fairly rigid if I recall but it'd suck to accidentally puncture one.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Is your shop/garage/space heated?

Somewhat? The printer is in my basement, which we don't actively heat. It's 60 °F / 25.5 °C down there.

I've been ducttaping the gap

The door gives you a much better seal, but it also gives you a thicker panel that will help insulation some. I saved one my acrylic side panels and will be attaching it to the door too to make a double pane... thing.

That soak time tracks with mine as well.

Glad I'm not the only one, lol. I am kind of considering adding more bedfans to maybe help.

How are you planning on mourning the radiant insulation? Like between the frame and panels?

I spaced out my ACM panels about 1/2" wider than stock to accomodate the radiant barrier inside the frame while still giving the gantry space to move. I'm somewhat on the fence about how permanent I want the insulation to be. Kapton tape around the edges is removable and might just pass the "good enough" threshold, even though it will prevent me from going completely edge to edge.

Vacuum insulated panel

This sounds pretty complicated. I think you could accomplish similar with a traditional double pane setup. The Linneo Nanonest is a double pane panel you can use in cllicky-clacky, but it was out of stock when I ordered my parts.

I spent a tiny amount of time looking at r-values for the various panels and they're all not that high TBH. If you don't mind the look, an external layer of foam insulation is going to be by far the best bang for your buck.

I'll follow up with radiant insulation in a week or two.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago (1 children)

The printer is in my basement, which we don't actively heat. It's 60 °F / 25.5 °C down there.

Wow, my house is colder than that WITH heating

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago (1 children)

We have a 4 and 7 year old and keep the first floor between 63-67 °F. I also realized the Celsius temp above has a typo, it should be 15.5 °C and not 25.5. That would indeed be warm, lol.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago

Oh ok that makes more sense !