radau

Photographing fairly flat angle with your phone and then scaling the imported image using a dimension such as the diameter of a screw hole or something will get you VERY close as well for more prohibitive items!

3D Scanner is really worth while if you do a lot but that's a bit of a barrier to entry for most people currently but hopefully follows the trend of printers getting better and more affordable.

I do this on my Xtool M1 with both the blade and laser cutter, both seem to work fantastic though the laser cutter leaves a little burnt residue.

Super easy to come up with the trace, just throw your part on a flatbed scanner, scan and trace it out in FreeCAD and send the SVG out for it to cut.

BBK actually doesn't make a 61mm gasket (I believe for 3502 part number), it still has 58mm holes so you're really better off just going custom when it's $20 for the wrong gasket lol that you have to hack up anyways.

I love the reduced time to get things with this approach. I just keep enough of different types of FelPro gasket paper on hand and have them cut as needed, way faster than Amazon!

My friend has been running a Nylon IAC spacer ln his turbo 351W foxbody with two laser cut gaskets to go with it for over a year with hard racing in high temps and all of it has held up great.

May not directly help you but might work for someone! Going to try to remember this from memory it's been a couple months since I've had to do it. Both of my printers are custom so this is what I do each time I have a new filament/type. It sounds like a lot but it's maybe an hour of mostly wait time and I don't do it again for the same type of spool unless I have an issue.

This is all based on running Klipper firmware and PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer and their built in tools for calibrating so YMMV:

1. Create a new Filament (and new Print Settings dependent on the type of plastic, if necessary) in PrusaSlicer. For example maybe I am creating a new Print Setting for "ABS" if it's my first time printing that type of plastic by cloning PLA, then add a new filament for the coloration. For example I might name it "Polylite ASA - Black" that way I can differentiate from the type of plastic, the manufacturer, AND the color. I typically will base the Type of an existing (e.x. PLA) and then tweak as needed (usually adjusting speed values).

2. Temperature tower, look for both quality AND strength, you can make a plastic visually print great and have almost zero adhesion.

3. Adjust values on Ellis3DP's Pressure advanced tool to match the desired printers parameters and then upload and run the test. I like this one a LOT more than Klippers

4. Set the pressure advance value for the new filament in PrusaSlicer.

Visually on the side of PrusaSlicer in advanced mode you would see:

• Print Settings: printer1 ASA (prefixing or suffixing is necessary if you have multiple printers)

• Filament: Polylite ASA - Black - printer1 (also necessary for multiple printers as you may have different settings between different printers)

• Printer: printer1

Generally speaking I only really need to get the temperature and pressure advance right and it's dead reliable and I can print at speed. I have tuned PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA, Nylon, CF Nylon and Polycarbonate following these steps and it's pretty set and forget.

Cyberpunk runs +-5 frames from windows for me on a 3070, I don't mod it though so can't speak to that

So many of these companies have turned into shells of what they once were it's really sad. NZXT used to be phenomenal, I had a side window crack on a case back around 2010 and they sent a whole damn case for free.

So much for paying for it!

Nice I haven't needed to relicense my ACF since I have a lifetime one but I am awaiting the eventual rug pull like DeliciousBrains did after WPEngine bought and enshittified them. Really feels like they just tried to secure as many "core" plugins for themselves which I'm really wary about.

Disable the license check in the plugin, you'll have to get the code first somehow though.

Better off avoiding them as much as possible though, each one you add increases the already somewhat large range of potential attack vectors.

Qbittorrent via a container and web UI on my NAS, lets me use it as a backend for *arrs as well as anything else, just have tag based directories for it so Software goes into one folder and TV movies etc in their respective folders.

I personally like the setup a lot since I can always be a seeder even well after my ratio is hit.

slskd hooked up to this as well to share everything music wise, gives me a nice way to reconcile stuff Lidarr can't find and shares it all back for anyone to browse so hopefully helps someone downloadv something they're searching for a FLAC of

nzb360 on Android for management as needed, it hooks into Qbittorrent easily and gives me a nice place to do some quicker tasks for my overall infra

So for me personally, Jellyfin isn't worth actually paying to back up all 16+TB, but my Nextcloud absolutely is. I do Restic for the data I want with a pretty long retention and have had great luck with restoring off of it

Yep FORScan let me set the VIN on an electronic power steering rack (because that's totally cool to require so you can't just replace it at home right?).

I beleive it is actually IDS just reverse engineered and more accessible, unfortunately not every maker has one of those out there it really should be legally required when you buy the car to at least get the software to "own" it.

The same reason they won't let you buy the dealership scan software for under 10k. Almost every maker has an in house scanner and due to standards they only need to provide certain data to non dealer level tools and I believe the standard only exists for gas powered vehicles that need to provide OBD2 data. Plenty of makers (BMW is horrible about this) stuff away data where a normal obd scanner just won't access and it's gotten much worse with the overuse of CANBus (I sure love when my trunk lid sensor prevents my fucking car from starting).

Thats where your snapon and other third party scanners start bringing a gap, but even those are extremely pricey and need to be updated constantly and even those usually won't do EVERYTHING.

Fwiw the cheapest and best way I've found is basically to pirate the dealer software and get a compatible knockoff scanner (vxdiag for example). I have Ford IDS and a couple others this way but assume that the software is gonna install something malicious and dedicate an old Thinkpad or something to it.

Depending on the age of your vehicle something like Torque Pro is extremely useful. I have mine monitoring transmission temp, long and short term fuel trims, O2 sensor signals, voltage, mass air speed, intake temp. It's more than enough data to see something coming long before it becomes an issue.