the maillard reaction causes cancer. I'm still not boiling my beef.
this post was submitted on 28 Feb 2025
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Also, gas stoves increase the risk of asthma.
Next time you buy a stove, consider a scheffler dish
We really shouldn't be using electricity for applications like that
Huh TIL. Thats cool
https://solarcooking.fandom.com/wiki/Scheffler_Community_Kitchen
Apologies for the fandom link
Our new-build house came with a gas stove+oven. Our overhead microwave does vent to the outside of the house so hopefully it helps a bit. The worst part is the oven's vents face the front, so the fumes literally go up to your face if you're standing in front of it. So when we use the oven, we try to keep distance and hope the the microwave vent sucks up as much fumes as possible.
Overhead microwaves are terrible at venting. Lots of places don't allow over the range microwaves over gas stoves in their building code. If you can afford to do so, consider getting a proper hood fan installed
Yup, I'm definitely looking into upgrading to a proper hood fan in the near future.
Appliance repairman here. What I tell my clients about gas in general is that: 1. When natural gas burns it create CO. 2. There is a none zero chance the thing can blow up.
Electric cooking appliances have an absolute zero chance of either of these two things happening.
I try to get people to switch to electric for these reasons some just like the aesthetic of cooking on gas.
C02 isnt the only dangerous chemical.
And most peoples electricity generates huge amounts of GHGs
Just pointing out the person you replied to said CO which is carbon monoxide, not CO2
The lack of formatting in their comment was confusing.
That said, you're right that CO (or CO2) aren't the only harmful outputs of combustion.
a non-zero* chance
We like to see it - fire, heat.
We like using pans that may not be induction friendly.
I absolutely agree. I'm happy to switch to a new technology as long as it performs at least as well as my current implementation.
I have a few cast iron and carbon steel pans, but most of my cooking vessels are thick copper (not copper inserts, full 3mm or more copper). Copper pans are superior to any other material (unless you prioritize cost) and are sadly incompatible with induction.
Don't even talk to me about electric element (non induction) stoves, they're garbage for heat control.
Did you know that the vast majority of electric stovetops aren't induction stovetops and you can use any pan you like on them? Personally, I would rather not breathe in carbon monoxide.
Ceramic stoves also work on other types of pans and emit a bright red glow when they're hot. However, they are less efficient.
Regular old coil electric stoves will be fine with, for instance, your old rough-bottomed cast iron pan. And despite no flame, the coils glow red hot like a horseshoe at a blacksmith's, to hit that emotional spot.
There is a little learning curve: they heat up and cool down more slowly, which can be a plus if you work with it.
Note: If you have spilled, especially grease, be sure to lift the whole stovetop to clean underneath, nobody taught me that at first.
We like to see it - fire, heat.
Exact reason why I built a fire in my kitchen. Gives that camping feeling
Instructions weren't very clear, now my house is burning down. Is there a good way to vent the smoke next time?
They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.
This entirely depends on the stove. Consumer-lever stoves? Sure, definitely. Commercial stoves? Probably not. Commercial stoves put out 3-4x the BTUs of a high-end consumer stove, and usually can't be installed in a home because they require significant shielding around them (so you don't burn a building down) and a very high flow hood. The highest-end Wolf range has a single burner that has a maximum output of 10,000BTU, and costs a whopping $17,000; a fairly basic range top for a commercial kitchen has six burners that can all output 32,000BTU, and costs about $3700. For stir-frying specifically, you can get a single ring wok burners outputting 92,000-125,000BTU starting at about $700 for natural gas (and a helluva lot more if you use LP).
Unfortunately, I can't find a solid conversion between gas and induction stove capabilities.
Oh, and FWIW - if you live somewhere with an unstable power grid, a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out, albeit you'll need to light it manually. We lose power fairly regularly due to storms--usually only a day at a time, but sometimes as long as 3-4 days--and it would be a real hassle to have all electric appliances when there's no power.
1 kW is 3412 BTU/h (=BTUs)
Most induction stovetops have a boost function with around 3-4 kW (that's about 13000 BTUs).
BUT contrary to a gas stove top, almost all of the energy is actually put into the pot instead of the surroundings (only 30-40% of the energy from a gas stove is used to heat the pot). Meaning that a 4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40'000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).
Okay, good deal. So, in theory, an induction stove that's 3500W should be approaching the heating ability of a typical commercial range.
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a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out
LP camp stoves work without power and are a good backup for an electric stove
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